Panama City, Panama



Downtown seen from Casco Viejo
Bridge of the Americas
Cerro Ancon (the big hill in the middle of town)

 

Revolution Tower – the floors spin!
Nickle Tour: Panama City is a bustling capital and a world city.  It’s a diverse city of contrasts complete with Chinese bankers, Afro-Antillean immigrants come Panamanians, sky-scapers, slums and of course, the Canal.  However, we found the City (and surrounding region) to have a relatively un-developed infrastructure for tourism, which can be both good and bad.
Travel Tip: If you’re on a long journey and need “it” or simply missing the States, visit any of the City’s malls and you’ll find anything from movie theaters (including an Alamo-esque dine-in cinema), Cartier, 4-star restaurants (and KFC-food courts), Payless shoes and outdoor stores.

See:  Below is a suggested itinerary for 24 hours in the City.  If you have more time and/or are interested in a couple of day-trips from Panama City, check out this post
At the Miraflores Visitor’s Center overlooking the locks

 

Morning: The Miraflores Locks and Visitor’s Center is a must see.  *Hot tip* The best time to see ships pass through these locks is from 9-11am or 3-5pm.  The museum offers a great overview of the Canal: its history, the layout and construction.  The movie, however, views like propaganda  . . .  You can view ships, tour the museum and have lunch at the restaurant ($20 pp for a buffet that’s ample but not extraordinary – just do it anyway) in about 3 hours.  *Hot tip*While you can get a taxi to take you to the Locks and then another to take you back, often a taxi will wait for you to complete your visit.  This should cost you about $20 (from Amador).

Panal Canal Administration Building
 In regard to the Panal Canal Administration Building, unless you’re an art/history freak or have the time, you might want to skip it.  The murals and the view is cool, yes, but I wouldn’t consider it a “must-see” on your bucket list.  More interesting to me is the fact that they paid the artist $30K in commission – not bad for the early 20th – or the architecture of the surrounding gov buildings which look exactly the same as all of the Texa A&I buildings my Dad taught at in Kingsville, TX, because they were built by the same military funds.


Afternoon: You can easily wander around Casco Viejo in a couple of hours.  Stay towards the southeast portion of the peninsula as the area is surrounded by slums.  Highlights include meandering around neighborhood to view the restored, semi-restored and crumbling buildings, the beautiful little square of Plaza de la Independencia, which houses the Panama Canal Museum,  and Parque Bolivar which houses the President’s Palace, and the Embajada de Francia Park at the tip of the Peninsula with views of downtown and the Causeway.  Hungry?  Drop by the Fish Market for cheap seafood that you pick out downstairs and they prepare upstairs.   Need a drink?  Try out the classy Havana Bar.

Typical Casco Viejo building

this is not an effecient bike

Other things to do include getting a panoramic view of the City by hiking to the top of Cerro Ancon, the big hill in the Canal Zone, and biking along the man-made, 3-mile long Amador Causeway. 

Along the Causeway, you’ll pass the Frank Gehry-designed museum (under construction) and a branch of The Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute (pet starfish anyone?).  At the end of the Causeway there are a couple of restaurants.  I’d recommend stopping at Barko for their name-sake ceviche (ceviche made with coconut milk and jalapenos, yum).

 

Frank Gehry art house in progress, Cerro Ancon, at right

 

Sleep:
While we stayed the first night in a hotel reminiscent of the Shining (Hotel Casco Antigua), we promptly moved out of the noisy and dangerous section of Casco Viejo to the Balboa district and into the Hostal Amador.  We were very pleased with The Hostal Amador which is more like a hotel than a typical hostal.  It’s $35 per night, has AC, is safe, is in a quiet neighborhood, includes breakfast, is  close to the Albrook Airport, the causeway, a $15 cab ride to Miraflores Locks, a $3-5 cab ride to Casco Viejo and $5 cab ride downtown – what more could you ask for?
Eats:
  • Downtown:  Eurasia is a quaint, up-scale place that serves up delicious fusion meals. 10 Bistro is another up-scale eatery with two locations downtown (1 in the Multiplaza mall, where we ate before a movie.
  • As previously mentioned, the ceviche at Barko at the end of the Causeway is worth the bike ride
  • If you want to rub elbows with “the locals” try the Fish Market and Café Coca-Cola in Casco Viejo.  They both serve up good dishes in an authentic atmosphere.
More:
Thoughts on the Canal: I’m completely blown away by the Canal.  It’s clearly an engineering marvel – sure, let’s survey an impassable jungle, invent new equipment for the project and dig the equivalent of through the Earth and then some.  But, from my public-policy-perspective, it’s a whole ‘nother miracle.  Consider that in order to build the Canal, the Americans had to build an ENTIRE CITY to support it – complete with a new-fangled socialized public health and roadway system (Don’t want malaria?  Pave ALL the streets and give everyone window screens!).  And, don’t forget the comforts American workers want at home: Rotary Clubs, the Boy Scouts, etc. Import, import, import, funds, funds, funds.  Again, as a public policy sucker who has witnessed tons of (awesome) government-funded projects go by the wayside (or not), it’s absolutely A-M-A-Z-I-N-G to me to think of the grant requests to fund a bowling alley for officers, approved (or maybe not).

All about Bocas del Toro, Panama

Ferry Port, Bocas del Toro
Nickle Tour:  We love Bocas.  Because it’s a series of islands, we found life on the water to be just what we have been looking for so while we came for just a week, we stayed for three and we’ll back for two months in March.  Bocas has so much to offer:  “city” life in Town complete with great food and nightlife, secluded beaches, diving, snorkeling, caves, hiking, jungle, surfing, sailing, wildlife (monkeys, red frogs, starfish, etc) and months and months of places to explore on land and by water.  There’s also a great mix of cultures in Bocas anchored by a diverse group of native Panamanians (indigenous tribes, Latinos of Spanish descent and Afro-Antillians) and supplemented by expats and cruisers from all over the world – including a lot of Texans!
Travel Tip:  You may notice Isla Caranero is barely mentioned in this post.  That’s because the threat of the bugs has kept us away.   You can definitely feel them on the other islands, so I’m not eager for an increase in irritation.

See:
Spending time in Bocas town:
Starfish Beach:  Take the bus to the northern tip of the island and get off at Drago Beach($5 RT), walk around the point to view hundreds of starfish laying in crystal clear water.

Rent a bike and explore the town.  For a nice ride, continue out of town and take the right towards Paunch and Bluff beach.  (An easy ride that’s about 2 hours round trip.
Learn Spanish.  If you’re staying for a while, take a refresher course at Spanish by the Sea.  I did and it was muy beuno!
Take a tour.  Many outfitters can arrange experiences ranging from day-sails and snorkeling trips and the ever popular DoDolphin Bay-Red Frog Beach-Zapatillas day tour.  The Bocas Sustainable Tourism Alliance is a good place to look for reputable tours.
A day on Bastimentos:
  • Pack a cooler of drinks and snacks and take a water taxi to the Red Frog Marina, take a short walk to the sea-side to bodysurf on Red Frog Beach and check out the Beach’s namesake.
  • Suspend yourself above the canopy on Red Frog’s ziplining tours!
  • After enjoying a few hours on Red Frog beach, hike south along the beach towards Wizzard Beach, which is great for surfing and Up the Hill (an almost-always hot, muddy hike) for a taste of refreshing  lemongrass tea or other locally-made organic products (many made from coconuts from their property).
  • Just past Up the Hill is The Thai Place which overlooks the bay and will satisfy your hunger with a spicy plate of yum after a day of fun in the sun.
Sleep:
Even though are house-sitting on Dolphin Bay, we spent some time in the area before and after our gig and can make the following recommendations:
Bocas Town:  Staying in Bocas town is very convenient but while you’ll definitely find the parties, you’ll have a hard time finding that deserted island feel unless you go further out towards Paunch Beach.
  • Las Olas ($40) is on the water, offers nice rooms with AC, TV, wi-fi, is safe and pleasant and has an on-site restaurant and bar which closes down early so it’s not noisy.
  • Spanish by the Sea ($20) is located on the school grounds but accepts non-students.   They have dorms and a few private rooms (as well as home-stays for students).  Internet and a kitchen is included.
  • Azucar Surf Retreat is on the other side of town (5 minutes by bike) and has 3 or 4 super-cute little cabinas, a private dock, kitchen/hang-out room overlooking the water. Plus, they have an on-site “spa” which is a lofted studio run by the wonderful Donna who does waxing, massage, etc at very reasonable prices. You can even get a massage on the dock, at sunset!

Bastimentos:  It’s just a $3 water taxi ride away (during the day and $5 at night) but is world’s away from the “hustle and bustle” (yeah, right) of Bocas town.

D at the Point on our balcony
      

The Point ($30) maintained by the friendly Canadian John, is, you guessed it, at  the point of the island.  If you’re looking for high ceilings of a wood framed cabina overlooking the sea with breezes and waves crashing below, this is the place for you.  Free kayaks and surfboards.  One drawback: no internet or kitchen.  But, a fridge is included for your cold drinks and food.

Eat:
Good Eats in Bocas Town (in order of my faves):
  • The Ultimate Refugio is fantastic!  Weekly specials of seafood fusion keep me coming back to see what’s on the menu – and soon to be in my belly!  As for the pitcher of Jungle Juice, it’s a good thing you won’t be driving home.
  •  The Casbah serves up Mediterranean dishes that are faboush!  We had an excellent starter of shrimp and then fig and goat cheese stuffed chicken breast, yum.
  • Bocas Marina on Friday nights serves up ribs and fire-dancing – fun!
  •  John’s Bakery is the place to get your choripan (chorizo “pigs” in a blanket) and enchiladas (flaky pastries stuffed with chicken and spices).
  • Starfish Café has great breakfasts.
  • Lemongrass has good thai-fusion apps overlooking the water.
  • Toro Loco is the local bar which serves up typical bar food and cold beer.
  • Late-night food carts serve up grilled meats for cheap prices.
  • Super Gourmet is a good place to satisfy your need for sushi, an Italian sub or whatever else you’ve been craving from “home” (sweet pickels, Tofutti, etc).
  • Oh, and don’t forget to stop by the Barco Loco for a stumbling-great time for dancing and drinks (and watch your step!  the “stumbling” is due to the Labyrinth-esque docks as much as the Abuelo 🙂
Good Eats elsewhere:
  • The Thai Place on Bastimentos is worth the hike “up the hill”
  • Rana Azul is south of Isla Cristobal, about 10 miles south of Bocas Town by boat. They serve up brick-oven pizzas and a weekly specials on Friday nights and Sundays at noon.  Get there early (by boat only) to get a parking spot!
Rush hour at Rana Azul
More:  Bocas del Toro is an archipelago of over 9 islands, 52 keys and 200 islets just south of Costa Rica on the Carribbean coast.  There are several large islands, including Isla Colon, where the main town “Bocas” is located.  Directly across from Bocas is Isla Caranero – notorious for sand flies (chitras) – and a 10 minute boat ride away is Isla Bastimentos.  Click here for a map of Bocas and other sites of interest in Panama.

Bocas del Toro, Panama

Dolphin Bay at dusk

             As you may know, Damon and I, have been invited to house-sit in Bocas del Toro from March 15th-May 15th.  We arrived early in January to pinch-hit for a week awaiting the January-March crew.  The house is about 8 miles south of Bocas del Toro on Dolphin Bay and is only accessible via boat, which the owners have included in the deal.       
Just before dusk

      The house backs up to the rainforest, is flanked by howler monkeys and a chocolate farm and overlooks a beautiful bay.
We have the pleasure of watching over two dogs, Indie and Gellie, as well as a parrot, Jasmine, who has really taken a shine to Damon.

Damon and Jazzie
 

Laurie and Gellie
We’re enjoying being off the grid and living on solar, rainwater catchment and boating to town on a weekly basis to provision.  We look forward to our two months back in Cerro Valero come March.  Until then, it’s time to do more exploring!
Ships in a bottle (kinda) from our deck

 

Border Crossing #2

Crossing the border

Crossing into Panama was fairly easy except you should know that you have to have proof of departure from Panama in order to enter.  We first encountered this in Costa Rica but instead of requiring proof, we simply got a lecture.  No such luck in Panama.  But, the good news is you can (conveniently) buy a bus ticket scheduled to leave Panama back to Costa Rica 1 block from the border crossing.  Consider it your departure tax . . .

Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica

Sunset at the beach 
Nickle Tour:  Manuel Antonio is an a-mazing national park in Costa Rica and you should go.  Albeit, “when I was there 10 years ago things were different!” you should still go.  You’ll see a wide array of wildlife, gorgeous beach and won’t be disappointed.  However, if you’re looking for solitude, go elsewhere.  The secret is out and the area is crowded.

Travel Tip:  While you can stay in Quepos and take a $.50 bus to and from the beach or through the main (only) road, I’d recommend staying along the main road.  If you do, you can walk to restuarants, bars, the beach, etc.  You’ll feel kind of isolated in Quepos, even though it’s only 7km to the beach.  But, you came to see Manuel Antonio, not Quepos so stay close to the park.

Also, hire a guide to tour Manuel Antonio – it’s well worth your money to have a trained eye pointing out camouflaged wildlife, and isn’t that why you came?


See: In addition to the Park (more later), we took a sunset cruise which shoved off at 3pm, included drinks, snacks and snorkeling before settling in to dinner and the beautiful sunset.  At $70 pp, it’s a splurge (for backpackers) but otherwise a great deal.

The Park, of course, is a must-see

That dark spot is an agouti

No joke!
Capuchins rule the beach

Alligators on the drive to Manuel Antonio
Mapaches (racoons) checking out tourist loot
An Ibis in the park and Pelicans on the beach

A three-toed sloth hangs out

http://www.youtube.com/get_player

Eat:
Across from the Avion bar (the giant plane sticking out of the mountain), there is an Italian place we stopped in because it had half-priced food on Sundays.  Check out this bacon-wrapped shrimp!

El Avion Restaurant & Bar



Sleep: There are an overwhelming number of hotels along the main stretch ranging from hostels to 4-star resorts.  So, look around and you’re sure to find something that suits your tastes. But, once again, I’d recommend staying closer to the beach than in Quepos.


Family Time in La Fortuna & Arenal, Costa Rica

La Fortuna at night with Volcano Arenal in the  back
Tree through the cloud forest at La Fortuna Waterfall
La Fortuna town square

Nickle Tour: Nestled in the cloud-forest highlands, the town of La Fortuna transformed rapidly in the last 30 years as Costa Rica marketed Volcano Arenal as a tourist destination.  Since then, visitors can enjoy the views of the volcano erupting (when it’s not clouded over, which is every day), many of whom do so in thermally-fed hot springs fed by the magma running underground at numerous resorts in the area.

Travel Tip: While Tabacon hot springs is “the place” most go, it’s also the most expensive.  Baldi is about half the price ($40ish for half-a-day including dinner) and just as hot.

See:  
La Fortuna waterfall is tucked in the cloud forest.  You can swim, but not under the waterfall as you’d get crushed.  It’s also quite a hike up and down, so wear proper footwear and prep for sore thighs. 
Baldi Hot Springs
Hot Springs: A must do!  Soak in any of the area’s hot springs.  There are plenty of resorts featuring the springs, with spa services, restaurants and bars for your easy enjoyment.  It’s also a good place to soak your bones after a day of hiking or rafting.
Hike!  Volcano Arenal has good hiking but you can’t go all the way up because it might ‘splode on you.  No beuno.
The Fam getting ready to Ride the Bull (Rio Toro)
Rafting!  We did a family trip with Desafio Tours and it was fantastic!  Whether you’re 15 or 65, you’ll have a great time, feel safe and ride great rapids.  The river has class 3-4 right after another which is great fun.  About halfway through you’ll get to stop and much fruit.  And, the guides will happily point out wildlife (howlers, toucans and a sloth) along the way.  We can’t recommend them enough.
Fresh fruit snack on the raft/table
Beth rides the bull!


















Sleep: We stayed 2 nights at Hotel La Fortuna (a certified green hotel) courtesy of Mom, so it’s not really a backpacker place, but it’s very nice . . . everything you’d expect from a standard American-style hotel.  I’d recommend it for those who want to be comfortable without staying in an uber-resort or hostel.

Eat: There are several good places around town, but nothing really stuck out.  Explore the main strip and you’ll be satisfied.

New Year’s in Nosara, Costa Rica

Hotel Nosara
Beach biking

Nickle Tour: Nosara is a special place in Costa Rica: a small surfing village with plenty of gringo resources and expats without the big hotels and crowds.  I hesitate to tell you how wonderful it is because those who love it don’t want the word getting out! 



Travel Tip: Nosara town and Nosara beach are about 15km apart.  You want to stay on Nosara beach.  Getting to Nosara by bus is no small feat – and that’s probably part of why it’s so safe and quiet. For those who can, I’d recommend getting a $80-100 plane ticket from San Jose if that’s where you originate.  And, for those who may consider stopping in Samara – don’t.  If you’re more into a laid-back surfer vibe than the party scene, Nosara is your pick over Samara.


See: You can easily walk around Nosara but after a few days, you may want to get some wheels (rent a bike or a quad to explore the area).  We drove up to Ostional and lucked out to see turtles laying on the beach.  

Sea turtles on the beach at Ostional

In the same day, we explored some outside of Nosara town and found a hidden waterfall which relieved us from the midday heat. 

We also were treated by our friends to a morning of sport fishing and if you get the chance, we can’t recommend it enough!
D getting lunch
Kitty likes sashimi, too!

And, of course there is plenty of surfing to be had by beginners and advanced surfers, alike.

 

At the end of the beach is Hotel Nosara – a can’t miss spectacle.  Rumor has it this sprawling estate has been home to wild parties, has a “batman-esque” lair under the pool and the owners recently turned down $17 million from the Four Seasons to finish it.  The reason they turned it down: because if it’s finished the owner will have to pay its investors back -something they’re not interested in.  So, it sits, in its Studio 54 glory slowly being overtaken by the jungle.

Finally, if you are lucky enough to be in Nosara when The Black Sheep (same owners as the Hotel Nosara) is open (once a month), run, don’t walk!  It’s a Playboy Mansion type place where they brew beer, a bridge traversing a pool and stunning views of the Pacific.









Sleep: While many folks splurge for the Iguana, we camped in the Carnie Tent at Solo Bueno, a surfers hostel for $26 per night, which includes a kitchen for cooking.

Camping Treehouse Gardens

After a few days, we moved over to a private tree-house room at the Camping Treehouse Gardens which was $20 per night and also included a kitchen.


Eat: Iguana has yummy meals that are infused with local seafood and a beach flair.  There is an Italian place in town with UNBELIEVABLE lasagna, quite possibly the best we’ve ever had! The Thai place was good, too.  You can also get most staples at any of the mini-supers in town.
Drink!  You must make the trek up Almost Paradise for sunset and try the Granny’s Juice aka a white sangria with vodka – now that’s the way to start your evening.

Granada, Nicaragua

Funeral in Granada

Nickle Tour: Granada is Nicaragua’s gem.  It’s a beautiful, restored colonial city but while it’s certainly beautiful, we found it lacking in things to do.  While 2 days will suffice, we got stuck there for 4 because it was during the holiday rush and buses going to/from Costa Rica were full of families going back and forth. 

Travel Tip: If you overnight at Laguna de Apoyo, take your own food!  Or, be prepared to shell out $5-10 per meal at one of the local hotels.  And, because of the geography, the lake is shaded most of the day so get there early if you want some sun.

See: Granada has beautiful churches, islands to discover in lake and a gorgeous open-air, pedestrian-only street which leads down to the lake.

Sleep: We stayed at Hostal Oasis and it has everything you could want: private rooms and dorms, kitchen, internet, TV, and a pool!
Eat: There’s a lovely, grand restuarant on the square that we enjoyed.  Sit on the balconey to watch the night’s activities take off while avoiding street vendors on the downstairs patio.  Also, there are plenty of restuarants – many offering 2 for 1 drinks during happy hour – along the grand avenue.
Kayakers, and a floating dock for sunbathing at Laguna de Apoyo
More: A day trip to Laguna de Apoyo can be a nice way to spend the day.  They have small hobie cats for rent, you can swim or just enjoy the peace and quiet.  

Ometepe, Nicaragua

Concepcion and Maderas on Ometepe Island on Lago Nicaragua
Urraca

White-faced Capuchin









Nickle Tour: Ometepe is decribed as a “fairytale” place on Lago, Nicaragua – the largest lake in Central America – and it truly is.  While there isn’t much infrastructure or things to do on Ometepe, it is a must-see in our opinion.  And, interestingly enough, it reminded us of home, well the Kerrville Folk Festival of home with its eco-fincas, hippies and plenty of nature to enjoy.
D getting a riding lesson from Elvis
Travel Tip: Make sure you have all the cash you need for your stay on Ometepe as there are no cash machines on the island and almost nobody takes plastic.  Also, we’d highly recommend renting a vehicle (read: 4 wheeler or motorbike) while you’re on the island.  You can hitchhike a ride from locals, but many know you’ll pay for a ride when it’s an hour walk anywhere in the hot, midday sun.  

Swim at Ojo de Agau

See: Ojo de Agua: a river-fed swimming hole reminiscent of Barton Springs in Austin, Texas.  Hike the volcanos if you like (we had enough in Leon) to see waterfalls and wildlife.  
And, as mentioned earlier, rent a vehicle and drive the island looking for wildlife and otherwise just exploring.

El Zopilote, an eco-finca



Sleep:  El Zopilote is a great eco-finca where you stay in tree-house type private cabanas, get a dorm room, rent a hammock for the evening or put up your own on their campsites.

Double-decker camping at El Zopilote

Eat: El Zopilote hosts pizza nights in their brick oven every couple of days and I’d definitely recommend the Diablo and the fresh salad from the garden (served on the pizza).  El Zopilote also infuses their own rum with coffee, vanilla and a host of other flavors – try some!  
Other than the pizza at Zopilote you’ll find the regular what-have-you on the island (beans, rice, chicken, etc).  And, we ran into a street vendor selling delicious corn tamales (our first and only tamales in Central America so far).

More
For #1
Composting corn-husk toilets
El Zopilote had an outdoor “Japanese Shower” (a pipe in the jungle surrounded by bamboo) and was also my first encounter with an ordinero (fancy hole in the ground for #1) and a rice-husk composting toilet (for #2).  I really enjoyed learning about this sustainable way to deal with waste with minimal water use.
How a corn-husk system works

Leon, Nicaragua

Largest Church in Nica – Leon, Nicaragua
Nickle Tour: Leon is a city with great history: the home of the revolution and people are proud of their pivotal role in taking back their country.   It’s a colonial city, hot (but not oppressively so), there are enough resources for travels while it maintains its authentic feel.  We highly recommend volcano boarding!
Travel Tip: Showing up on a Friday night and expecting a (private) room at the two main hostels is not a good idea.  Make reservations there (or elsewhere if you want to swing right into your digs).

D&L ready to surf the Volcano!


See: Volcano boarding!   It’s worth the $30ish pp to hike Cerro Negro (one of Nica’s many volcanoes) and surf down!!!

Beisbol on Sundays: we got to see Granada vs. Leon – a longtime rivalry – and it was a great (and cheap) way to while away the afternoon and soak up the local flavor.


Sleep: Hostel Ambergue (1 night, $20 – not recommended – it’s safe, there’s internet but it’s not cute – a LFJ requirement for a recommendation); Casa Iguana $35 (TV, hot water, clean, safe, nice, internet) 
Those lines on the ‘Cano are made by surfers, like us!

Eat: Cafe with the smallest cookie ever and Cafe Meditteranian
Hiking to the summit
Surfing down

D went 43 kmph!

More:  Leon is full of history.  It’s where the Sandinista movement was born and the town was literally torn apart by the fighting.  Check out the old town and the (former) presidental palace, which is now in ruins.

Heroes of the Revolution