A totally typical day

Today we are prepping for the half-a-dozen guests coming to visit us in Isla over the next two weeks – yay, y’all! Thanks for coming!

For some of our guests, they will be staying on board for their visit. Then a couple of Damon’s long-time buddies will continue on board as they help us crew Mother Jones across the Gulf and back to Texas.

Needless to say, with friends coming and the prospect of returning home (to land, to work, for the foreseeable future) we have found ourselves reaching into our present moments trying to appreciate life aboard – with just the two of us (and Kemah, of course).

So, what did we decide to do on our last day alone on the boat?

WE WENT TO THE MOVIES!!!!

Yep, I know it might sound crazy to all y’all on land, but given we spend most of our time outside (albeit amongst sea-breezes and gin-clear waters), it’s a real treat – something un-usual for us – to go to the cinema.

So, we were excited!

There’s a cinema 10 miles across the bay in Cancun’s hotel zone that has amazing VIP treatment: you reserve your seats at purchase so no need to wait in line, the seats are lazy-boy recliners, they serve sushi (for me) and philly cheesesteaks (for D) and the sound and picture are out-of-this-world. Basically, in contrast to re-watching an old favorite on our laptop, the Cancun Cinepolis is a perfect out-of-the-ordinary experience for a flick like Hombre de Acero* (Superman)!

*Movies in Latin America are dubbed and subtitled depending on the showtime. Most affluent Spanish-speakers (aka “readers”) prefer subtitled movies for the premiere acting experience over dubbed movies. Kids and other less-literate folks prefer dubbed movies. Or so we’ve been told.

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our awesome seats

Plus, even though we’ve been in Isla for about a month, we had yet to explore Cancun. While we prefer sleepy Isla to “the Vegas of Mexico”‘s miles of hotels, Chili’s and Sears, we thought “hey, why not? It’ll be good practice for our immersion next month”.

We actually thought of this land-date weeks ago and while we were eager anticipating it, we put it off until yesterday: our last day to go. D checked the weather when we got up and said there might be a few scattered showers, but nothing major to worry about (you always worry about weather when you leave the boat). So, we were clear to go.

I got dressed up (adding mascara and jewelry to my jean shorts, t-shirt and flips) and let my hair down (it had been in my anti-humidity, stand-by braids so was all super-mermaidy-kinky-cool). D got dressed up, too (donning a clean t-shirt with his board shorts).

We checked movie times and ferry times, pumped up the dinghy and headed to shore. We popped into El Milagro Marina – where we’ll be pulling in for our guests – to chat with some friends* before leaving, and make final arrangements for our berth.

*by the by, our friends have a little cucaracha problem on board; we had some extra boric acid and were happy to hand help them out. Although, handing them over a small, ziploc baggie full of white powder, in reality could have seemed a bit, ahem, awkward . . .

Anywho, by the time we chatted with our friends – made a few new ones – and confirmed arrangements at the dock, the wind picked up, blowing a cool breeze across the island. A scattered storm was approaching, no doubt.

“Heh heh, great day to be away from the boat?” we joked to one another. I mean, it was just a little bit of wind, with sprinkles, right?

Just then, we saw the dockmaster run up to us sailors saying “is your boat red & white? It’s dragging. Fast!”.

Nope, it wasn’t our boat. It was Pamela Ann and she was about to swipe a Cat with her stern.

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Pamela Ann, the Cat & the reef in the background

From the dock we could see three dinks full of assistance zipping their way – plus the wind was actually really light – so we opted to stay out of the way, on shore.

Luckily, Mother Jones and the rest of the boats in the anchorage* weren’t budging so we still felt confident keeping on with our plan.

*We all want to know how to prevent dragging. So, without trying to judge anyone, it’s natural to ask “why?”. In such light winds, to drag that much when no one else is, lead us to believe the problem was in the anchoring technique of Pamela Ann‘s captain.

Within 5 minutes (which is long or short depending on whether you’re the one dragging or not) we watched Pamela Ann hook in (you see a sharp turn into the wind) and all seemed under control. We left the marina and caught a cab a mile or so north to the ferry dock.

Standing on the ferry dock, with 30 minutes before our boat left, the wind and rain picked up – like, a lot. Soon the wind was probably about 20 knots and it was white-out rain.

Ugg. We knew what this meant: we really should get back to the boat – or at least somewhere we could see the boat – and other boats in case they drag into us. Aaaaaahhhhh! Stupid wind getting in the way of movie time! Has this ever happened to you? If you live on land, probably not.

We hemmed and hawed. We really wanted to go to the movies! Just to have a fun day playing tourists in a new town.

But, off we went, away from our ferry to fun-town, in the kinky-hair-killing-rain back to the marina where we watched our boat hold steady in the wind until the storm blew past.

Within about 40 minutes, all was quiet again. So, undetoured, we tried again. Cab, ferry, tickets, GOT ON THE FERRY, GOT ACROSS THE BAY and then, THIS was waiting for us:

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a trio of pirate ship replicas used for dinner-theater sunset cruises

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HA!

I really wish we’d have know about this when Mom was here. She’d have loved it (and made us do it). Ok, maybe I’m glad we didn’t know about this when Mom was here . . .

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Costumes included with your dinner cruise

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Davy Jones is surprisingly cordial

Anyway, the rest of the story isn’t that remarkable. Superman was great. McDonald’s still has awesome fries. Reclining movie theater seats rock.

And, so does this:

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In case of fire in a Mexican movie theater, become a fireman, costumes included, axes on inside of glass #DIY #BYOAxe

In short: weather-threatens “normal” plans, boaters rally to help each other out, movies are special treats, pirates are apparently no big deal & other cultures do things different. In other words, a typical day.

Viva Mexico!

Hola!

Just posting quickly to let ch’all know we made it to Isla and have embarked on a whirl-wind tour of the island (Mom’s in town 🙂

Anyone who knows my mom knows she is an awesome traveler: she’s up for anything, she thoroughly researches (and details an organized itinerary in excel) of interesting things to do and she gets us out & about (from almost dusk to dawn). Sheesh! I can barely keep up with her!

With Mom here we’re getting a great orientation to the island and practicing our hosting skills for what’s to be a small invasion of Austinities coming to visit us next month (yay!).

For any of y’all that are coming (or considering coming) to Isla, here’s a map of some great stuff we’ve already done & seen:


View Isla Mujeres + Cancun in a larger map

And, here’s some general info about lodging on different parts of the island:

  • The north end of the island has tons of stuff within walking distance (restaurants, bars, shopping, beaches, etc) but you’ll be around more people.
  • The middle part of the island is relatively easy to get a cab to/from. You can get hotel rooms or rent a small villa or house, some with views/beach access to the bay side of the island. It’s more private/less touristy here but you need transport.
  • The south and southeast side of the island is mainly house rentals and you will definitely need transportation.

Where we’re anchored (just south of the airport, mid-island), we can easily go by our dinghy to the north part of the island, most places in the middle or southwest/lee/lefthand side of the island (through the inner lagoon). And, we can always get to shore and cab it to wherever to meet up.

The two marinas across from us (El Milagro & Paraiso) have nice rooms for $50 per night (with a pool, restaurant, bar, etc). Their beaches aren’t the best (there’s sea grass). But, it’s just a $2 cab ride to town or north beach.

And, for those of y’all wondering about what we did in Honduras, the fun stuff we did in Guatemala and our couple weeks in Belize, stay tuned 🙂

Quick update from Guatemala

Hey y’all,

I know it’s been a while. Our last month has been super crazy (more on that later) so we decided to take a break from “the world” (I know, I know, you already think we do that but this time we *meant* it :).

Now, we’re checking back in and it feels good. We’re lucky enough to take a break from the boat and have been on the road travelling overland exploring:

  • the super-serene mountain villages of Lake Atitlan,
  • and, the colonial city of Antigua (a UNESCO World Heritage site).

This weekend, we’re headed to

  • the limestone pools of Semuc Champey,
  • and, the land of the Ewoks ancient ruins of Tikal.

It’s a super-quick trip that is reminding us how much we like travelling with our house (hostelling is work, y’all!).

But, “what about Kemah?” you say. Right. He is living large on S/V Mother Jones with the awesome-rad folks of Over Yonderlust who were amazing enough to use our dog-sitting needs as a big, fat excuse to come back to Central America.

While we’re away (and not posting long-winded, stream of consciousness ramblings here), you can always keep up with the latest, day-to-day brain farts gems from the S/V Mother Jones crew on our facebook page.

See y’all back on the water!

love,

D, L (& Mr. K from the boat)

Mom’s Visit

At the end of August, almost half-way through my time single-handing/Damon’s working time in Austin, my Mom came to visit! It was a quick 10 days, but we packed a whole lot in: 3 days in the Highlands sandwiched by 3 on either side in Bocas.

This visit was actually the second time she came to visit us in Panama – the first being last year, when were travelling overland and dropped the big bomb on her that we had no plans to return to “the real world” but instead planned to sell everything buy a boat and return to Panama. What a difference a year makes . . .  we had done it and were back were we started, showing her sights she hadn’t seen in 2011 and, in general, what our life was like on the boat (or at least what my life was like singlehanding on the boat until D came back from working in the States).

And, of course, in between showing her the sites and in’s and out’s of our new life aboard in Panama, we had this totally typical Mother-Daughter conversation:

  • Me: “Soooo, do you have any big questions for me?”
  • She: “ehh, no” (she’s a totally bad liar)
  • Me: “like, maybe: ‘What am I going to do with my life and how am I going to pay for it?'”
  • She: “sure”
  • Me: “Man, I don’t know. But, I’ll when I do, I’ll let you know!”
  • She: resigned, “okay”

I had a great time showing her my life aboard in Bocas, including the local flora:

beriba

beriba

peanut clover

peanut clover

one of my fave jungle plants

one of my fave jungle plants. Doesn’t it look like a sparkler in slow-motion?

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the bamboo cathedral at Jim Jackson’s

passionfruit

passionfruit

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at Camrykaland

shampoo ginger

shampoo ginger at George & Sue’s

and, the local fauna:

Wildlife in Tierra Oscura

a dolphin & sea bird in Tierra Oscura

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moon jelly

moon jelly – you can actually pick these up and the feel like breast implants, weird

Mom got to see the process of turning cacao into chocolate from my friends George and Sue:

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Cacao on the tree

cacao aka pre-chocolate

cacao aka pre-chocolate

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cacao bean to nibs

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powdered cacao

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frozen chocolate, yum!

And, some practical solutions in the Banana Republic:

bathroom key in the jungle is an actual banana

bathroom key in the jungle is an actual banana

She also got to see what life on the boat is really like, 8 months in:

doing dishes

doing dishes* 11/12 update: when Damon got back he installed a salt-water pump in the galley so this is a thing of the past!

getting around in the family car;

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driving the dinghy

Mario & I (ok, mostly Mario) fixing the motor when it refused to start;

fixing the engine

fixing the engine

me, fixing the head when it slipped a nut;

classic plumber shot

classic plumber shot

and, me (again) pulling up anchor (while Lorenzo supervised) when it was time to go sailing.

I am the windlass!

I am the windlass!

But, ultimately, the tropical heat did not agree with Mom.

Mama's hot!

Mama’s hot!

Mom cools off

Mom cools off

So, we headed to the hills where we could enjoy some R&R in the cooler climate in Boquete and I could do some major provisioning in David.

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Boquete!

One water taxi and one five-hour bus ride later and we were up in the lovely, lush mountains of Panama. And, boy was it a lot cooler than Bocas – about 30 degrees cooler!

how much I like cold weather

how much I like cold weather

But, it was also a beautiful change of scenery. While it was so much cooler than Bocas, it seemed just as wet; allowing Boquete’s gardens to really thrive in this temperate rain forest.

it's wet in the rainforest!

it’s wet in the rainforest!

But, oh so pretty . . .

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“downtown” Boquete from across the river

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these hanging lillies were everywhere!

We had heard that in addition to the beautiful gardens, many folks come here to bird-watch, especially hoping to see the ever-elusive Queztal. Can you believe we saw one without even trying???

A rare queztal spotting

A rare queztal spotting

OK, well, we didn’t really. It was just some fun painted rocks 🙂

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That evening we took a bumpy ride several kilometers outside of town to stay even higher in the mountains (read: colder). We stayed at The Boquete Tree Trek (named for it’s ziplining through the trees, which we did not have time to do).

to/fro town from the mountains

to/fro town from the mountains in the back of the ziplining truck

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the main lodge and cabins

our cabins

our cabins

in the main lodge

in the main lodge

With its log cabins, roaring fireplace, and super-comfy beds, it was the most cozy and romantic place my mother and I ever stayed, together.

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looking into the Boquete valley from the lodge

They even had tame rabbits roaming about – yes, tame rabbits roaming the grounds!!!

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so tame!

caption this?

caption this?

One thing Boquete Tree Trek also had on site was an amazing suspension bridge (which I think are so cool, as long as I’m not on them).

suspension bridge at Boquete Tree Trek

suspension bridge at Boquete Tree Trek

as far as I went (1 foot)

as far as I went (1 foot)

Our stay at the lodge was wonderful. I would love to return (this time with my hubby): they had great food in the main lodge (pork chops with fresh cherry compote, etc), the cabins were beautiful and the grounds were amazing.

But, we were on a whirlwind tour and headed out to David so I could do some power shopping aka treasure hunting for everything not available in the islands.

First stop was La Casa de las Baterias, which is exactly what it sounds like: The House of Batteries. Basically, the battery bank on Mother Jones was fried. So, we needed new ones. For any of you cruisers out there who are curious about our new bank, after many, many conversations with other sailors we ended up going with three, 12v sealed, deep-cycle batteries mainly because of where ours are located (we can’t top them off easily, which means we won’t top them off regularly).

battery shopping - about as fun as it sounds

battery shopping – about as fun as it sounds, plus it’s expensive!

Another project on my to-do list was re-upholstering our boat (re-covering all the salon cushions and making new curtains for each thresh-hold – my clever idea to use lightweight, affordable muslin for the old curtains was foiled by mold, which loves the sugars in natural fibers).

I was so happy to find a wonderful fabric store in David. The owner was super helpful: he showed me lots of options, made sure I had everything I needed for the project (piping, good thread, etc) and he even helped me re-calculate all my measurements when I thought “maybe I want the stripes to go the other way . . .”. Needless to say, I’m super excited to get started with the makeover on Mother Jones!

new upholstery!

new upholstery!

If you’re keeping track (like I was), we had only been to two places but I now had about 60 lbs worth of batteries and 15 pounds worth of fabric to schlep home on the bus – which was not going to work. Luckily, there’s a super-advantageous service for Bocas residents where you drop stuff off in David to be trucked to Bocas in a weekly shipment (with everyone else’s goods that won’t fit on the bus) and then when it gets to Bocas, you run the truck down and get your stuff = amazing!

So, each shopping errand actually turned into two: one to get the stuff and one to drop the stuff off. By mid-day, we were ready to re-charge our (human) batteries, which we happily did at the best restaurant in David, Cuatro.

somebody likes sangria

Shopping fuel: somebody likes sangria @Cuatro

Next stops were Novey’s (home & garden store), Pricesmart (Costco) and Conway (Target) – man it felt good to get a few t-shirts without boat smell on them, it’s the small things in life!

treasure hunt find #863: dowels

treasure hunt find #863: dowels

Yep, I found the Panamanian Costco!

Yep, I found the Panamanian Costco!

 

treasure hunt treasure #6489: Panamanian TARGET!!!

treasure hunt treasure #6489: Panamanian TARGET!!!

And then, after a good night’s sleep, it was back to Bocas for just a few short, sweet days with Mom before I was back to single-handing again (read: installing the new battery bank & starting to re-upholster, pfew!).

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Mom and I at the mirador at Red Frog Beach just before she left

 

You’re welcome! A word about guests

We love guests!  And, we love it when our guests are well-prepared to have a great time aboard Mother Jones.  There are a few things you should know before you come, so I thought I’d list a couple for you in advance, below.  If you have additional questions, shoot.

  1. When should I come/where will you be?

Great question!  Unfortunately, this is one of the hardest questions to answer.  So much of living aboard is dictated by the weather and sailors who get into trouble forgo the weather to be somewhere “on time”.  So, most seasoned salts say you get to pick 1: where or when. I, like you, love to plan my trips months in advance based on cheap airfare, days off, etc.  But, this can be tricky for meeting up with Mother Jones.   The best way to deal with this is to stay flexible and count on the unfortunate scenario that we may not be “there” when you are: requiring an extra drive, puddle jump or stay in a hotel as we wait for the weather to bring us together.

Of course, this is the worst case scenario.  We are planning to be in the Bahamas through April and in Panama for some time starting in June, so that is a great time to plan for a visit – or book a refundable ticket.  Along the way,  I’m afraid it may be hard to plan more than a week in advance, so get your Kayak alerts on “last-minute deals” for islands in the Caribe del Mar and roll the dice, my friends!

  1. Can I stay with you?

Of course!  But, know that space is at a premium and privacy is an illusion so consider that when you come.  Check out this video walk-through of Mother Jones to get an idea of how much (little) space is aboard and be honest with yourself about whether you are up for this.  If staying with us isn’t your bag (“I love cable, AC, hot showers, restaurants and a closed door”), no worries!  There are plenty of places where you can stay ashore, join us during the day and retire your comfy hotel room in the evening – aw shucks, you may even have us join you for some room-service and pay-per-view!

  1. What can I bring you?

I’m so glad you asked!  You’re so thoughtful.  While my Mom maintains a healthy list of things-to-be-Sherpa’d, we’re always in the need for some hard-to-find stateside items.  Check in with us before you come and we’ll set you off on a Whole Foods-West Marine mini shopping spree.  Did we mention how thoughtful you are?  You are so thoughtful.  Thank you, seriously.

  1. What to pack?

A great attitude!  And, very little – in a soft-sided bag (no rolly bags, please).   We have everything you could *need* aboard and space is at a premium.  The perfect guest would bring:

  1. Stuff my Mother has collected for us in our “pile” in Austin (for which you will be a Sherpa – thank you!!!)
  2. A (waterproof if you have one) camera, swimsuit, shorts, shoes that have a soft bottom and can get wet (you won’t need heels), a hat, long-sleeve light-weight shirt to cover yourself from the sun and depending on the time of year, a sweatshirt (it can get windy-cold on the water).   And, if you want, a nice sun dress or button up shirt with slacks for a night out on the town.  Bug spray, sunscreen, towels, sheets, an extra laptop, etc; we have it all so don’t lug it with you.
  1. What will we do/can we go for a sail/snorkel/1,000 things before I leave?

Hmmm, much like everything on a boat: it depends.  The weather is our guide, or rather, we are her guest – is that a saying yet?  Anywho, paramount of the myriad reasons we live aboard is that you get to slow down.  And, if you don’t adopt this perspective, you will find yourself frustrated.  Geez, even using the head (for #1) takes twice as long as usual (cause you are the flusher).

So, relax, enjoy the islands, mon.  We’ll try and give you the best of what we’ve experienced – weather permitting.    And, if you don’t get to do the 1,000 things you thought you’d do on your relaxing Caribbean vacation hey, at least you’re not on a conference call.

  1. What do you eat?

Wow.  We eat well.  We provisioned tons of supplies before we left the States and we try and mix these goods with fresh produce and fish wherever we go.  We don’t eat out a lot because Laurie loves to cook and loves the freedom of eating delicious food without asking if something is gluten or dairy free (the occasional bacon cheeseburger and queso are exceptions, of course).  We don’t keep a lot of meat on board only because we don’t have a big fridge but we love seafood and try to catch as much of it as we can.  Also, we’re on a budge so eating at home works most often for us.  But, we don’t mind joining you out for a nice meal every once and a while, especially if you’re feeling generous J

  1. Showering, pooping and other issues of daily hygiene

The illusion of privacy on a boat is just that, an illusion.  There is just one door on Mother Jones – and that keeps the ocean out.  Inside, we all know what you’re doing – and you know what we’re doing.  Get over it.

Showering

Showering is done as needed (and you generally don’t need to shower everyday) in the cockpit from a shower bag.  What’s a shower bag, you say?  Well, it’s basically a heavy-duty plastic bag with a hose on it that we fill with water, put out in the sun (aww, warm showers) and then let rip!  Showers last about 5 minutes and that’s about all you need.  If you want a bath, I know of a great salt-water tub just overboard J

Pooping

A good friend asked: “how do you, ya know . . . go?  Is it like an outhouse or like a port-o-potty?” And, this is an understandable wondering, so here goes:

We have a ‘marine head’, which is the correct term for a combo outhouse/port-o-potty (for you landlubbers :).  You sit down on (or boys stand in front of) the toilet just like normal but it’s a manual flushing – pumping, really – for #1 or #2 (before #2 you pump water into the bowl so the solids flow down).  The process of pumping breaks up solids which either go 1) into a holding tank (port-o-potty style) when we’re in places where you can’t flush out directly or 2) directly into the ocean (out-house style) when you are 3 miles or more off-shore.  You can either get you holding tank pumped out if you’re close to land all the time or if you’re on the move like us, you can fertilize the ocean, as I like to view it.    Keeping in mind always, that some aren’t always as diligent as to where you’re not allowed to “direct discharge”, you get picky as to where you swim around a lot of anchored boats J

And, on the Mr. K front, he goes (#1 & #2) on the bow of the boat and then we dip a bucket into the ocean and use the sea water to simply wash it overboard.  We do like to try to get him on shore at least once a day (or every other day) so he can get some exercise.  After all, when he’s not busy holding down pillows, Kemah likes to burn off steamah!

  1. Safety

We like it!

As a guest of Mother Jones, we need you to like it, too.  There will be times when we need to you do something and please do it (what, me, bossy? never ;).  There’s a great reason we’re asking you to move this way or that or hang on to this or that, so trust us, willya?

When you come aboard, before we offer you a rum and punch (wait a minute, will ya?) we’ll run down where and where not to step or hold on as well as where the fire extinguishers, life jackets, radios and other safety equipment is.

As a guest of Mother Jones you will probably never experience anything that causes you concern, but if your gut tells you to tell us something, don’t hesitate to tell us!  One of the awesome things on being on a boat is being self-reliant, but that also means being proactive, alert and trusting your instincts (and your senior crew’s) should anything worrisome arise.

  1. Privacy or lack thereof

“Privacy” on a boat deserves the air-quotes I’d give it if we were talking to each other in person as well as the quite literal quotes I’m using here.  We definitely give ourselves time to do our own thing, either right in front of each other, in different parts of the boat, or away from the boat.  But, if we’re all on the boat together, get ready to “love thy neighbor” the Good Book has that one right, for sure.

  1. Do you charge?  Can I pay you?

Well, this is another tricky one.  We’re not licensed captains so we can’t legally charge to charter – nor, are we experienced enough to do so.  But, we are on a budge, do think this is a totally valuable experience and there is cost associated with what we’re doing (and what you’re coming to visit).  As long as you’re along for the ride for a couple of days, we’re happy to host.  But, keep in mind that a case of beer in the Bahamas is $50 and a tank of gas is upwards of $5 so, we’re definitely open to any offers to split reasonable costs and donations to our “boat maintenance fund” are very much appreciated.