Making our way home

Daily weather analysis? Check.

Hulls cleaned? Check.

Provisioning? Check.

Ditch-bag stuffed? Check.

Course charted? Check.

Crew orientation? Check.

All the rest of the boat chores? Check. Check. Check.

We have a weather window and we’re leaving TODAY!

Now, all there’s left to do is . . . make our way home.

In contrast to how I’ve felt about passages in the past, I’m actually really looking forward to this upcoming 4-7 days at sea. I’m excited about my star-filled, night-time watches. I can’t wait to watch the sun light dance in white-lighting streaks of the deep blue sea. I’ve got batter & cabbage ready for some awesome fish tacos made from a nice, big mahi we hope to land underway.

In short, I’m so ready – for the 700 nautical miles between here (Isla Mujeres, Q. Roo, MX) and there (Freeport, TX, USA).

In contrast to this well-charted course, there’s everything else which lies beyond.

Like re-entry. As ex-expats.

Which is mostly (thankfully?) uncharted.

What we do know – and are very much grateful for – is that we have (short-term) jobs and housing* lined up.*a friend even offered up her RV for us to stay in, which seems like such a more normal transition for us than a “house” – I mean, it’s small and it moves, feels like home to me.

We have an amazing bevy of family and life-long friends whom we can’t wait to see. We will have an “income” again (which we are so looking forward to!). And, there are all the “little things” I’m looking forward to, like eating *all* the spring rolls, swimming in the amazing, spring-fed, FRESH water springs that abound in Central Texas, and getting a new, actually well-made, cute, supportive bra (one without rust or mildew, bo-nus!).

A few days ago, a newly-arrived, on-a-two-week-sailing-vacay crew member/guest of the boat in the berth next to us swung by to say “I here you’re going back to Texas. I’m sorry.”

What? some people, eh?

I was 100% sincere when I replied “we’re not!”.

This is our third year “on the road” y’all. We’re ready for a change. And, by “change”, I mean familiarity. A home-base. “Normalcy”. (ok, so that might be a bit of a reach)

But, you get the picture.

Shortly after arriving here in Isla, we were fortunate enough to meet up with some awesome sailors from South Africa. They were a young-ish couple, and like us, they were burnt out. Even though they had significantly more miles under their hull (they’ve been out for 8 years), we noticed ourselves nodding along to each other’s sentiments of “we’re not appreciating it anymore; we went to town today and didn’t take 1 picture” and “we’re not retired; there’s still stuff we want to do – on land”, “boat life is hard – it’d be nice to not maintain all these systems for a while”.

Could it be true? Is So Many Beaches beached out!?! Not so fast.

We’re not ready to sell our boat, our home, our MJ. But, we are ready for a change – at least for a while.

As it stands, we’re grateful to have the opportunity and excited to “try on” living back on land for pinch. We figure we’ll take our time, likely sit out next season and just experience life back home for a while.

Speaking of “life back home”, just as we know what we’re excited to come back to, we also know there’s another side of the coin. I’ll miss having so much privacy (the Dr. Jekyll to loneliness’ Mr. Hyde). I’ll miss sleeping in a swaying bed with the stars as my ceiling. I’m not looking forward to the fast-pace of the (awesome) city we’re returning to and the consumer-culture of America in general (spring rolls & new bras being obvious exceptions). I know K will miss his daily salt water swims. And, as much as I can’t wait to catch up with everybody back home, I fear it’s inevitable that there’ll be mis-communications and other awkward adjustments as my fish-out-of-water path merges with others’ on land again.

These are just a few of the things I know to expect. But, what about what I don’t know that I don’t know?

Yikes!

These little – or big – surprises are coming. Ain’t that a peach!?! ummm . . . yes?

I got a little preview today: while in the middle of final prep for our passage, I got uncharacteristically confused, indecisive and overwhelmed. And, I was angry and snappy about that. So, I was angry and snappy with D.

I stormed off down the dock to take a break – and realized, while sitting on the beach, under the palm trees, with a clear view of my boat in the gin-clear Caribbean waters, that this was the last time I’ll have this spot in the sand, in the sun with a view of MJ on the water- at least for a while. Because, of course (reality is sinking in) I’m coming home. Or, at least making my way.

And, perhaps that’s just a bit stressful. For anyone. And, anyone includes me.

Doy.

It hit me: I’m stressed. From turning my life upside-down. From going from everything I’ve known for the past couple of years to something else (familiar and un at the same time – weird, right?). Apparently, I have thoughts and feelings about that, lurking not so subtly beneath the surface. Who knew!?!

There I sat, in the sand, I literally bowled over with emotion: it came right out of the front of my face in thick, salty streams. Along with laughter.

I’m such a type-A dork, I thought. I’m totally adept at the practical, list-making side of things: if I can excel-it, I can do it! But, turns out my emotions don’t fit so well in those little cells – I don’t care how much you “wrap text”. (told you I was a dork)

After some deep breaths and a great call home to an old friend, I surrendered to the full circle of the choice I am making (for everything it is and everything it isn’t – including the  stress of change). All of the sudden, the freedom to just own my stress was funny: I signed off “love ya, thanks so much for listening. but, I gotta go . . . cry on my boat some more!”. And, he, my amazingly wise friend, didn’t hesitate: “Good for you. You’re not gonna get to cry on your boat for very much longer. So, live it up.”

~~~

As we make our way home, across the Gulf in charted waters, you can follow along here: http://www.somanybeaches.com/where-in-the-world/where-we-are-now/. See y’all in the US!

Kemah’s Korner!

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In case you missed it on our Facebook or Twitter pages, this little blog got a whole new section featuring a whole lotta FAQs answered about living with a sweet, salty dog aboard:

It’s Kemah’s Korner, y’all!

And, it’s awesome (if I do say so ma’self).

So far, info about Kemah’s life aboard S/V Mother Jones has been featured on The Monkey’s Fist. *AND*, based on yesterday’s post, Kemah’s been invited to join a spread of cruising dogs in Practical Sailor magazine’s upcoming issue (I’ll post that once it’s up in a few weeks).

Exciting, huh!?!

**update: Kemah’s a centerfold! Check out Practical Sailor’s article on “Canine Crew” (featuring Mr. K) here.**

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all the exposure from his debut made someone a little bashful

A totally typical day

Today we are prepping for the half-a-dozen guests coming to visit us in Isla over the next two weeks – yay, y’all! Thanks for coming!

For some of our guests, they will be staying on board for their visit. Then a couple of Damon’s long-time buddies will continue on board as they help us crew Mother Jones across the Gulf and back to Texas.

Needless to say, with friends coming and the prospect of returning home (to land, to work, for the foreseeable future) we have found ourselves reaching into our present moments trying to appreciate life aboard – with just the two of us (and Kemah, of course).

So, what did we decide to do on our last day alone on the boat?

WE WENT TO THE MOVIES!!!!

Yep, I know it might sound crazy to all y’all on land, but given we spend most of our time outside (albeit amongst sea-breezes and gin-clear waters), it’s a real treat – something un-usual for us – to go to the cinema.

So, we were excited!

There’s a cinema 10 miles across the bay in Cancun’s hotel zone that has amazing VIP treatment: you reserve your seats at purchase so no need to wait in line, the seats are lazy-boy recliners, they serve sushi (for me) and philly cheesesteaks (for D) and the sound and picture are out-of-this-world. Basically, in contrast to re-watching an old favorite on our laptop, the Cancun Cinepolis is a perfect out-of-the-ordinary experience for a flick like Hombre de Acero* (Superman)!

*Movies in Latin America are dubbed and subtitled depending on the showtime. Most affluent Spanish-speakers (aka “readers”) prefer subtitled movies for the premiere acting experience over dubbed movies. Kids and other less-literate folks prefer dubbed movies. Or so we’ve been told.

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our awesome seats

Plus, even though we’ve been in Isla for about a month, we had yet to explore Cancun. While we prefer sleepy Isla to “the Vegas of Mexico”‘s miles of hotels, Chili’s and Sears, we thought “hey, why not? It’ll be good practice for our immersion next month”.

We actually thought of this land-date weeks ago and while we were eager anticipating it, we put it off until yesterday: our last day to go. D checked the weather when we got up and said there might be a few scattered showers, but nothing major to worry about (you always worry about weather when you leave the boat). So, we were clear to go.

I got dressed up (adding mascara and jewelry to my jean shorts, t-shirt and flips) and let my hair down (it had been in my anti-humidity, stand-by braids so was all super-mermaidy-kinky-cool). D got dressed up, too (donning a clean t-shirt with his board shorts).

We checked movie times and ferry times, pumped up the dinghy and headed to shore. We popped into El Milagro Marina – where we’ll be pulling in for our guests – to chat with some friends* before leaving, and make final arrangements for our berth.

*by the by, our friends have a little cucaracha problem on board; we had some extra boric acid and were happy to hand help them out. Although, handing them over a small, ziploc baggie full of white powder, in reality could have seemed a bit, ahem, awkward . . .

Anywho, by the time we chatted with our friends – made a few new ones – and confirmed arrangements at the dock, the wind picked up, blowing a cool breeze across the island. A scattered storm was approaching, no doubt.

“Heh heh, great day to be away from the boat?” we joked to one another. I mean, it was just a little bit of wind, with sprinkles, right?

Just then, we saw the dockmaster run up to us sailors saying “is your boat red & white? It’s dragging. Fast!”.

Nope, it wasn’t our boat. It was Pamela Ann and she was about to swipe a Cat with her stern.

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Pamela Ann, the Cat & the reef in the background

From the dock we could see three dinks full of assistance zipping their way – plus the wind was actually really light – so we opted to stay out of the way, on shore.

Luckily, Mother Jones and the rest of the boats in the anchorage* weren’t budging so we still felt confident keeping on with our plan.

*We all want to know how to prevent dragging. So, without trying to judge anyone, it’s natural to ask “why?”. In such light winds, to drag that much when no one else is, lead us to believe the problem was in the anchoring technique of Pamela Ann‘s captain.

Within 5 minutes (which is long or short depending on whether you’re the one dragging or not) we watched Pamela Ann hook in (you see a sharp turn into the wind) and all seemed under control. We left the marina and caught a cab a mile or so north to the ferry dock.

Standing on the ferry dock, with 30 minutes before our boat left, the wind and rain picked up – like, a lot. Soon the wind was probably about 20 knots and it was white-out rain.

Ugg. We knew what this meant: we really should get back to the boat – or at least somewhere we could see the boat – and other boats in case they drag into us. Aaaaaahhhhh! Stupid wind getting in the way of movie time! Has this ever happened to you? If you live on land, probably not.

We hemmed and hawed. We really wanted to go to the movies! Just to have a fun day playing tourists in a new town.

But, off we went, away from our ferry to fun-town, in the kinky-hair-killing-rain back to the marina where we watched our boat hold steady in the wind until the storm blew past.

Within about 40 minutes, all was quiet again. So, undetoured, we tried again. Cab, ferry, tickets, GOT ON THE FERRY, GOT ACROSS THE BAY and then, THIS was waiting for us:

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a trio of pirate ship replicas used for dinner-theater sunset cruises

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HA!

I really wish we’d have know about this when Mom was here. She’d have loved it (and made us do it). Ok, maybe I’m glad we didn’t know about this when Mom was here . . .

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Costumes included with your dinner cruise

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Davy Jones is surprisingly cordial

Anyway, the rest of the story isn’t that remarkable. Superman was great. McDonald’s still has awesome fries. Reclining movie theater seats rock.

And, so does this:

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In case of fire in a Mexican movie theater, become a fireman, costumes included, axes on inside of glass #DIY #BYOAxe

In short: weather-threatens “normal” plans, boaters rally to help each other out, movies are special treats, pirates are apparently no big deal & other cultures do things different. In other words, a typical day.

Coming to America, Part 2

coming to america Part 2

notice that purty boat in the poster now!

Remember last week when we made a big ol’ announcement about the S/V Mother Jones crew coming home to Texas for the summer (aka hurricane season)? ‘Member how that update included lists about stuff we did and did not have “figured out”? And, finally, might you remember how the following info about the boat was neatly bullet-ed in the “figured out” list:

“S/V Mother Jones is staying in Isla Mujeres, in a marina, in the inner lagoon for the 90 days we’re not with her (which also happens to be 90 days of hurricane season, dun, dun, DUN)”

Well, you can just scratch that off the “figured out” list! (shocker: I did that in the old post ’cause I’m OCD like that)

After talking to some super-duper-smart people for the last week or so here in Isla and doing a TON of online research and outreach, we got to thinking seriously about other options. Namely, the option we’re leaning towards now: bringing MJ back to Texas, hauling her out* and putting her on the nicest patch of solid, “high” ground we can find along the TX coast. *Instead of hauling out, we have considered leaving her on a floating dock with 10’+ pilings – out of the way of other boats??? Suffice it to say, our jury (of two) is still out on this one.

If you’re a land-lubbing friend of ours back in ATX, you might read this update and think, “Cool, maybe I’ll get to see the boat”. Feel free to stop reading now 🙂 But, if you’re a sailorespecially one who is trying to find out what to do with your boat for hurricane season – you might be interested to know the nitty-gritty of how we arrived at our decision to change course 180 degrees from leaving our boat here in Isla to  setting sail over 700 miles of the Gulf and bringing her home.

Still reading? OK, get ready for some nitty-gritty sailor dork out time. In the spirit of continuing (my) education and paying it forward, I’m gonna use this post as an opportunity to resurrect the algebra student in me and “show my work”.

***Full disclaimer: I’m just diving into all of this stuff, learning as much as I can, as fast as we can (Hurricane Season officially started June 1st, you know, 4 days ago . . .).***

I hope to add to this list as I learn more and I hope you’ll help me correct any of my assumptions if I should know better. Afterall, we don’t know what we don’t know, right? Consider this your open invitation for solicited advice. All that being said, here’s the deal y’all:

  • We’ll be working in Austin July-October.
  • We are not planning on sailing the boat during this time.
  • Bringing the boat back to Texas would allow us to check on her easier (than in Mexico, or the Rio), would allow easier transport of the dog (yay, K is coming home, too!) and allow us to have easy access to any items we have aboard that we want in Austin.
  • While we’re not that keen on cruising the Texas coast after years of gin-clear water and almost zero regulations (Why hello there, TPWD, tax office, marinas that require insurance, etc), we aren’t quite sure what we want to do next.
  • Another thing we do know is that we will need a bottom job within the next year, requiring a haul-out.

So, considering all that, having MJ close by in Texas, totally stripped and strapped down in an affordable yard seems like the best fit for us. (as of this writing) “Great! But, isn’t Texas in the Hurricane Zone? Where will you leave MJ and what will you do to prep her? Do you have to pay taxes and register MJ in Texas? Isn’t crossing the Gulf, like, a big deal?” Wow. Those are a lot of totally great questions. It’s like you read my mind or something . . . Here goes some answer ‘splaining to those questions: Do you have to pay taxes and register MJ in Texas?

  • Yes. (arrg, Ben Franklin!; dead for 200 years, still right)
  • Even though she is documented with the US Coast Guard, we will still have to pay to register her in Texas and we have to pay a boat sales & use tax.  
  • Why do we have to pay? When we bought MJ in Florida, we were never required to pay sales tax on her or register her in any state because we left Florida – and the US – within 90 days. So, now that she is being registered in TX (a US state with sales tax) we have to pay. 
  • How much, to whom and by when? Well that depends on our bill of sale and how soon we pay it. Apparently, there is a 90 day grace registration to pay the $110 state registration, 20 working days to show taxes paid (rate is 6.25%). If we’re delinquent on any of that stuff we’d accrue penalties & interest of 5% of the tax within 30 days, 10% within 60 days + interest at a rate of 1%. Confusing? Yes. But, luckily, TPWD makes it easy to show how much you potentially owe them through this handy-dandy tax calculator. Ain’t that sweet of them?
  • I’m still not sure on where we pay our taxes – county of residence or county of the boat. So, stay tuned on that piece . . .
  • It’ll end up being around $3K, which is a lot to us. But, it’s way less than what could potentially happen if we left her unattended without easy access to check on her (Mexico, the Rio, etc) during hurricane season (and beyond?).
  • And, what about insurance? That’s a great question, too. We haven’t had it since we left The Bahamas over a year ago. We haven’t met a ton of sailors who have it outside the US. But, it seems lots of US marinas require liability and insurance in a hurricane zone does seems like a good idea, so we’ll see . . . (cue your recs here)

Should we haul out or keep her in the water? Great question! There’s a ton of debate on this. And, from what I can tell the answer is a simple, two-parter: “I dunno.” and “It depends.” Here’s what I can tell:

  • In the water: Boats do great in the water on floating docks with pilings taller than the expected surge unless another boat in your area breaks free and starts to play Smash Boat with every boat in it’s path.
  • On land (also called dry storage): Boats hauled out on solid, high ground, secured with tie downs on braces also do well. Trouble is, it can be tough to find hard, high ground at sea-level. And, boats on weak stilts, in mushy ground can topple over like dominoes or become aloft (especially cats) if they’re not strapped down properly.

BTW – I’ve attempted to examine maps of Texas for “hard, high ground” with mixed results. Exhibit A:

What fun! We’re still debating these possibilities but leaning towards hauling out because 1) I hope whatever yard we chose will be hard and high enough so boats won’t topple over 2) she’ll be ready to be worked on when we’re ready to do the bottom 3) we won’t be using her anyway 4) I think it’s cheaper than keeping her in a slip. So, now there’s just the small matter of where to put the boat:

  • We’ve “narrowed” it down to the 250 miles of Texas Coast north of Corpus, south of Galveston. Ha!
  • Because we’re not going to be using her and all towns are basically equidistant from Austin, my main concern is the safest place for the boat (as opposed to the city with the best Thai food).
  • It seems to me that the Kemah/Clear Lake area has a ton of resources for boaters, including some great marinas with floating docks. It also seems geared towards recreational boaters (not live-aboard sailors) with bigger, deeper pockets than ours. We keep hearing great things about Waterford Marina, which could be a good choice if we leave her in the water.
  • On the flip side, the Matagorda Bay area (Port A, Port Lavaca, Rockport, etc) seems a little saltier. Which is to say, I think there are more blue-collar fisherman, live-aboards and sailors down that way. I could be wrong, but I’d expect it to be cheaper than the Kemah/Clear Lake area. Plus, I really like it’s position on this crystal-ball of a map:
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As opposed to the red of Isla Mujeres, I like that little patch of yellow south of Galveston a lot. – “Risk Maps for The 2013 Hurricane Season” courtesy of Crown Weather

In short, we’ve got a lot of ground to cover in terms of researching how (dry or wet storage) and where to store our beloved MJ while we’re away.

Because you know I love maps, below is one I created to help me visualize our options. Of course, my type-A me has organized the pins in order of most-least favored. Feel free to view the notes/send me yours if you have any corrections.


View Marinas & yards Texas in a larger map

As of now (6/7/2013), I’m particularly impressed by Freeport, Texas. I mean, look at these floodgates:

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Image courtesy of Texas Escapes

In terms of how to prep the boat, that’s a ton of work, too. But, luckily, there are some awesome cruisers and public and private entities who have already detailed this stuff (so you and I don’t have to).Here’s some of those resources, which have been helpful to me in explaining “it’s not the wind, it’s the waves” and other stuff you need to know:

  • This great video from West Marine:

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-Dj5de79Jo]

We will be utilizing a combo of all of these recommendations and tips to prepare MJ for the Big (hopefully uneventful) Sleep. Some other resources I thought worth mentioning include:

  • Crown Weather’s awesome, in-depth, for-dummies (like me, not you SmartyPants) anaylsis of the 2013 Atlantic Hurricane Season
  • The amazing community at Women Who Sail. If you are a woman who sails or have one aboard, I recommend you join this awesome community.
  • The super helpful folks at the Texas Mariner’s Cruising Association took the time to write me back a detailed response full of local knowledge and they connected me with an awesome former cruiser. This cruiser has been super generous with his time – he even gave us his home phone and expects us to let him know when we’re coming so he can look for us coming in and show us around. ~swoon~

Pfew! Thanks for hanging in there y’all!

Believe me, if I weren’t in our (literal) boat, I’da stopped reading a looong time ago (right about after that funny pic of Eddie Murphy with my head on it).

But, I am in our (literal) boat. And, maybe you are, too. (hey! get out of our boat, stowaway!)

For searious, if you are reading this and, like me, working out hurricane season algebra, I hope one word of this is helpful to you; writing it all out sure is helpful to me. And, finally, just one more plug for solicited advice . . . if I got anything wrong or should consider something else, please don’t be shy, drop us a line in the comments section so we all can learn from you. THANK YOU!

-the girl with an amazing intact boat come November

ps. If you’re wondering, because of the header picture, if Alf and Angela Lansbury are coming back to Texas with us, I wish! For now-zies, it’s merely a pipe dream of Capt. D, who is coincidentally head of our graphic design dept, and whose motto is “if I build it, they will come”.

Coming to America

MJ coming to america

Yup! D&L are headed home for the summer!

aka “will work for sailing adventures”

We’re excited to join the Fantastic Fest team in producing yet another awesome week of scary-weird films and great events. Because the old Festival stomping grounds on South Lamar are still stomped, the new, temporary location for this year’s Fest will be held at the Lakeline location. Festival dates are September 19-26th.

“But, what about the boat? The dog? Where will you live? How will you get around? When can we hang out? Can I buy you lunch? What about after October?”

Yep, we have those questions, too. And, here are *some* answers:

What we’ve figured out so far:

  • D&L are headed back to Austin mid-July through mid-October, with a likely trip to central California sprinkled somewheres in there
  • S/V Mother Jones is staying in Isla Mujeres, in a marina, in the inner lagoon for the 90 days we’re not with her (which also happens to be 90 days of hurricane season, dun, dun, DUN)
  • We will totally hang out. Multiple times. Until you’re sick of us. Can’t wait.
  • Why, yes, that’s so nice of you! You can totally buy us a breakfast taco/BBQ/Shiner/pony. (On second thought, no ponies, please.)

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S/V Mother Jones is a one-horse town

What still needs a-figuring:

  • Should he stay or should he go now? (Kemah) At 10 years old, he has never flown before and we’re not eager to try it out. And, because he’s a pit bull mix some airlines restrict the breed (due to their short noses). I, for one, think K has a beautiful long nose, which may become attached to a “lab mix” should we decide to fly him. But, given he’s in his autumn years and has a tendency to be sensitive to new things, I’d much prefer to drive or sail him home. ***update: K is coming home with us on the sailboat :)***
  • So, should we drive (through Mexico)? Or, can we hitch a ride with another sailor heading Stateside? Could we get him back the same way in October??? hmmmm . . . ***update: we’re sailing home***
  • Or, should K stay aboard, in his comfort zone, with an awesome dog+boat sitter keeping him company (and enjoying living rent-free in a slip in the Caribbean)? If you’re interested in entertaining this possibility, let us know. ***update: you missed your window on this, no one***

Oh, and then there’s us:

  • We won’t have a car, unless you lend us your spare (I can’t believe you have a spare car!). So, plan on us showing up on our bikes, a Car2Go or whomever we hitch with (“Thanks, Mr. *not* Serial Killer!)
  • We have an open invite to stay with a handful of close friends and fam. We will not be homeless – which is SO AWESOME. But, we sure don’t want to impose on anyone, and know there are weird sitches all around “Keep It Weird” town where folks need a house-sit, etc (I can’t believe you have a spare house!). We will be doing pre-production in South Austin (S. 1st & Mary  – our old stomping grounds!) and once the Fest starts we’ll be up North as in Capital “N” North. So, let us know if you’re one of those people with a conveniently-located spare house/garage apartment/RV (hey, don’t ask, don’t get, right?). 

So, any of y’all’s needin’ to make some deposits in the karma bank, here’s your chance to help out a few wayward sailors – there’s a yacht berth in the Caribbean waiting for you 🙂

See ya soon, ATX!!!

~D, L (& Mr. K?)

oh, I almost forgot: in terms of “what about after October?” Ha! That’s almost half-a-year away! We’ll let you know how that chapter starts when we settle on a direction for the draft. But, just in case it doesn’t involve vagabonding around the Caribbean on S/V Mother Jones, come visit us in Isla before we come home!

Clearing into Isla Mujeres, Mexico

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Clearing into Isla Mujeres, Mexico from Belize without an agent (and with a dog)

5/20/2013

S/V Mother Jones

www.SoManyBeaches.com

Prepared for www.NoonSite.com by Damon Jones

This same report is listed on Noonsite here

In a nutshell:

  • Clearing in on our own was not as hard as we thought.
  • For sailing vessels, you will need:
    • your passports
    • 6 copies of:
      • Passport(s)
      • Zarpe from previous port
      • Crew List
      • Vessel Document papers
  • For vessels with a dog:
    • proof of current rabies & parvo vaccination and internal/external parasite prevention (frontline/heartguard).
  • For vessels staying more than 2 weeks:
    • You need to acquire a Temporary Import Permit (TIP) in Cancun (take the ferry):
      • All paperwork from completed clearing in process
      • Serial numbers on your engine(s)
      • 1 color copy of your visa (you get it from the immigration department)
      • $50 USD
  • You’ll walk to several offices on the north end of the island (some possibly more than once) with your paperwork as you collect officials’ stamps and additional paperwork/receipts. This will take a few hours.
  • We were never, at any point, asked about insurance for our boat. We don’t have any currently, and it wasn’t a problem for us.
  • Total charges for everything, including our import permit and taxi/ferry fees, came to about $170USD

We had read that it was a potential massive headache to clear into Mexico without an agent (in Isla Mujeres) due to the many requirements and departments that needed to be met, but, as we like to do things ourselves (feeling of accomplishment, feeling of fuller wallet), we weren’t 100% sold on needing agent services. Luckily, upon our arrival into Isla Mujeres (on a Monday morning), we got some helpful information from the cruising community via the 8:30 (US Central) cruisers net held on VHF channel 13.

For proceeding sans agent, one fellow cruiser offered us use of a custom map with homemade step-by-step instructions on clearing in on our own. If we didn’t want to deal with all the running around, it was recommended that we check in with Chepo at Marina Paraiso for more info. He was rumored to be one of the most helpful fellows around, and his agent services were knows to be very reasonably priced.

After anchoring in the south end of the north lagoon (across from Marina Paraiso/ Marina El Milagro) we took the dinghy to Marina Paraiso and met with Chepo, who was indeed very friendly and helpful.  He gave us the rundown of the fees involved with checking in, and told us that we’d need to come into a marina slip for the day if we wanted to use his services* and he would arrange for all the officials to come to the boat (rather than going to multiple offices downtown). The added cost of the marina slip on top of the agent fee (which added nearly $80USD to what it would cost to clear in ourselves) was enough to convince us to give it a shot on our own. Chepo was very understanding and proceeded to give us some additional directions and advice on going through the process without an agent, and soon we were in a taxi and headed to town.

*Note: since we’ve been here, we’ve spoken with another captain in the anchorage who used Chepo as their agent without having to enter the marina. This was not our experience, but apparently it is possible.

Here are the stops you need to make (maps below):

  • Port Captain (on the westernmost main street, Avenida Rueda Medina, just north of the Naval Base, right next door to the white, multi-story Bahia Chac Chi hotel; enter the door on the left). Here we confirmed which offices we needed to visit (and in which order) and where they were located. Nothing else to be done here at this point.
  • Sanitation/Health Department (walk about 3 blocks north on Avenida Rueda Medina from the port captain’s office, take a right at the Senor Frog’s store (Morelos St), and walk east three blocks until the street ends. The clinic, which houses the sanitation department, will be across the street to your left).  Proceed through the main entrance, pass the reception desk and straight back to the last door on the right. The official that helped us was very professional, spoke English, and processed our paperwork very quickly. We were told that he can be particular with the formatting of some crew lists; ours are 8.5in x 11in, have all our vessel information, passport numbers, DOB, last port of call, and our signatures. We had no problems. After you fill out a form, he will request copies of the documents listed above (all but passports), keep a few and then return the rest with his stamp applied. He also gives you a health department clearance form. NOTE: the building his office is in is also a minor-emergency-type clinic. We had an abscess and the cost to see the doctor and get it opened and drained was $4 USD.
  • Immigration office (head back down the street you came up, and at Senor Frog’s, take a right and head north another block or so on Avenida Reuda Medina. Immigration is in a clearly marked building on your right).  Here they will need your passports and all your stamped copies.  After filling out the standard-issue immigration forms (one per person), you will need to pay. It was about 350 pesos per person for us (exchange rate at time of writing is about 11pesos = 1 USD).  If the immigration officials aren’t busy, they’ll take your cash, walk to the bank, get a receipt, and bring it back to you while you wait in the immigration office. If they are busy, you have to go to the bank yourself, make your payment, get a receipt and return it to the Immigration office. When you return to the immigration office with the receipt from your payment to the bank, they will complete your paper work, stamp your copies (make sure they stamp all your copies!), issue your visa, and send you on your way.
  • Port Captain’s office (you’ve already been here). This office houses the Customs, Agriculture, and Port Captain. This stop can feel a bit hectic as each office representative comes at you from the small window behind the tinted glass. We were asked several questions (in Spanish) and filled out a few forms and overall the process went smoothly. Here we were charged 455 pesos. The agriculture officer asked us if we had any fruits and veggies on board, and if you reply you do not, they will generally bypass boarding (unless you are coming from Columbia, in which case we have heard they will search your vessel with a drug dog and possibly a diver). He then handed me a form he filled out, which had a box checked that we had no animals on board. I told him we had a dog, and he asked to see the health papers for the dog and copies of our exit zarpe for Guatemala, where we last had our dog “checked out” and where we got our most recent vet documents about a month prior. After looking over the documents, he said he needed to see the dog, so as soon as we were finished with the rest of the paperwork, we all jumped in the dingy and headed to the boat. He didn’t inspect our dog other than to visually confirm that he matched the physical description of the dog listed on the paperwork, and then we returned the official to the island. We had to pick up an animal import permit from him the next day at the port captain’s office, and then we were finished with the clearing in process (humans and dog alike).
  • Getting a temporary import permit (We were told this needed to be done within three days of clearing in, but we’ve talked to folks that took a week to do it with no problems).  As far as we understand, agents are not allowed to handle this step; you must do it yourself. From Isla Mujeres, get on a ferry to Puerto Juarez (the Magana ferry dock is closer –walking distance- to the Customs office in Puerto Juarez, and it’s a bit cheaper than UltraMar at 130 pesos, round trip). From the Magana dock, go right on the road and walk for a little more than a quarter mile. The customs building (which looks a lot like the port captain’s office in Isla Mujeres) will be on the left, across the street  (on the west side of the street). Enter the building and head to the desk straight back and to the right of the restrooms. It’s got a sign that says “Banjercito” and several posters with information on fees associated with importing vehicles. Unlike several other desks, there was no line when we went. Here they will want copies of your zarpe & crew list (with all five department stamps on each of them: sanitation, immigration, port captain, agriculture and customs –make sure you have ‘em all!), passport, vessel registration, and visa.  The Banjercito clerk requested color copies of all except passport (so she could clearly make out the color stamps), which meant I needed to walk up the street to an internet café to have a few color copies made (Also, the port captain prints on the back side of the zarpe, so don’t forget to get a copy of that as well).   She also requested engine serial numbers, which I didn’t expect to need but was able to get via a phone call to the boat. Once I returned with all requested copies, I was charged $50 (specifically in US dollars, not pesos, in exact change, and with no torn or marked bills), filled out an inventory form for the boat, and we were finally done with everything!

Isla Mujeres map with notes

Isla Mujeres homemade map

Viva Mexico!

Hola!

Just posting quickly to let ch’all know we made it to Isla and have embarked on a whirl-wind tour of the island (Mom’s in town 🙂

Anyone who knows my mom knows she is an awesome traveler: she’s up for anything, she thoroughly researches (and details an organized itinerary in excel) of interesting things to do and she gets us out & about (from almost dusk to dawn). Sheesh! I can barely keep up with her!

With Mom here we’re getting a great orientation to the island and practicing our hosting skills for what’s to be a small invasion of Austinities coming to visit us next month (yay!).

For any of y’all that are coming (or considering coming) to Isla, here’s a map of some great stuff we’ve already done & seen:


View Isla Mujeres + Cancun in a larger map

And, here’s some general info about lodging on different parts of the island:

  • The north end of the island has tons of stuff within walking distance (restaurants, bars, shopping, beaches, etc) but you’ll be around more people.
  • The middle part of the island is relatively easy to get a cab to/from. You can get hotel rooms or rent a small villa or house, some with views/beach access to the bay side of the island. It’s more private/less touristy here but you need transport.
  • The south and southeast side of the island is mainly house rentals and you will definitely need transportation.

Where we’re anchored (just south of the airport, mid-island), we can easily go by our dinghy to the north part of the island, most places in the middle or southwest/lee/lefthand side of the island (through the inner lagoon). And, we can always get to shore and cab it to wherever to meet up.

The two marinas across from us (El Milagro & Paraiso) have nice rooms for $50 per night (with a pool, restaurant, bar, etc). Their beaches aren’t the best (there’s sea grass). But, it’s just a $2 cab ride to town or north beach.

And, for those of y’all wondering about what we did in Honduras, the fun stuff we did in Guatemala and our couple weeks in Belize, stay tuned 🙂

Sew, sew, sew your boat

Some folks ask us what we do on the boat all day. Pa-shaw.

Well, in between boat chores, exploring anchorages and islands, and just the everyday living stuff, sometimes I get to being all crafty with my sewing machine.

2-photo

sewing is fun (even when repairing sails)

When we’re not sewing sails, sometimes I sew fun stuff.

Like these easy-peasy baby shoes.

And, other times, it’s a way more involved project, like totally re-doing the boat’s interior, making new curtains, pillow cases (with molas from the Guna Yala) and creating wash-able slip-covers for our settee.

new upholstery!

new upholstery for the settee!

For an overview of how I made our wash-able, remove-able slipcovers, check out the video below.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NeAhSnDhxo]

And, here’s a series of pics that show our little salon transformation:

**You smarty-pants readers might notice that the cover on our back cushion of our settee isn’t tight – it isn’t on. I just happened to make the video the morning of a day of sewing – in which I planned to modify that cover that afternoon. Why modify? Well, I had been living with a bad design for 6 months, so I changed it! How’s that for smarts!?! The bad design was one uber-tight fitted tube of fabric we’d wrestle on and off. I changed the design to an easier fit by cutting the tube, sewing a strip of soft-sided velcro to the top and bottom of my new cover and stapling the rough side of the velcro to the back of the cushion. Vi-ola!**

Annnnddddd, back to some more fun stuff . . .

This past week, I worked with a local seamstress here in Caye Caulker, Belize to turn my mama’s old mumu

14-IMG_0567

before

into a modern maxi-dress

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after

Fun huh?

To get started, you don’t need a ton of experience or a fancy machine (I have a basic Kenmore). All you need is a bit of creativity and the willingness to learn – of course, the generosity of some amazing seamstresses willing to guide you doesn’t hurt!

Off you go, now, have fun!

That time I was pregnant in Guatemala

with twins. What!?! yes.

And, then, one IUD removal, many weeks, one emergency room visit and a whole lotta awkward Spanglish later, we weren’t pregnant any more.

This really happened, although it’s kinda hard to believe. Even for me. And it happened to me. Well, it happened (and is still happening) to us, the crew of Mother Jones.

While this post isn’t the usual sailing or travel post, it is about what really happens to real people (us), who happen to live on a boat in foreign waters (yep, still us). Because even though it might seem sometimes that we live in a postcard, it’s not every day that “life’s a beach”.

I’ve struggled with whether to share this info as it’s, clearly, highly personal. I realize the way I’ve chosen to write this (my) story may seem flip at times. And, I understand many folks may know someone or be someone who has experienced loss.  Everyone has a way of dealing with it. This is my way (goofy syntax and all).

Additionally, as the title might imply, this post does contain discussion of lady parts, bodily fluids and other potential TMI moments. So, if that freaks you out, just come back later. We’ll return to our normal programming of sunsets and wacky stories (sans lady parts) soon enough.

~~~

Still with me? Great, I knew you could do it. Welcome aboard, strap in and get ready for one hell of a ride, y’all. Hell, if we can do it, so can you. This:

At the end of February, we arrived in Guatemala. Shortly after settling into our new home on the Rio Dulce, Damon and his brother Dylan took off on a four-day overland adventure: taking the long way across Guatemala to visit Tikal on Dylan’s way to the airport in Guatemala City. While the guys were gone I stretched out on a tidy, man-free boat, treated myself to a home sparty (that’s spa-party for the layman), played “I wanna dance with somebody” way too loud and generally enjoyed my alone time. And, I got my period – or so I thought . . .

It was weird: Aunt Flo was super-duper light, with no cramps – and my boobs had been sore for a couple of weeks prior . . . hmmmm. Given I had an IUD (for the past 8 years), this felt unusual (copper IUDs tend to make periods and cramping heavy, and this has been my experience). But, given I had an IUD, I just rolled with it – it’s not like I could be pregnant or anything—the possibility didn’t even cross my mind.

But, a few days later, while talking to Damon after he got back from his short trip, about my “weird period this month”, I started listening more carefully to my body. Yep, you got it, I was talking and listening at the same time. It was like one of those movie scenes where the actor is talking, but it sounds like Charlie Brown’s teacher (“waa waa waa waa”) and the actor’s thoughts become visible and start to add up like some ethereal arithmetic problem:

Hmmm, couldn’t be, right? I mean, my breasts are tender, my “period” is not really like any period I’ve ever had – in fact, it’s more like spotting. Wait a second. Maybe I’m pregnant . . . nah, that would be crazy!  I mean what are the odds of that!?!* Wha? Really? Nah! I’m being dramatic. But, just in case, let’s go get a pregnancy test just to rule it out from whatever is going on.

*apparently the odds are .06% –  as in decimal POINT 06% not even whole number six percent, but less than 1/10th of 1%! Here on S/V Mother Jones, we really know how to beat the odds, eh!?!

So, off we went, in a taxi to a pharmacy. Like two skippidy-doo-dah lovers playing “pregnancy test”. I mean it was sooo unlikely that it was kinda fun to “just see”. (nevermind any thoughts about what could be going on if I wasn’t just having a “weird period” or was pregnant; I mean really? me pregnant? no way – I have an IUD, as in all-CAPS, FOOL-PROOF IUD).

I remember feeling a bit embarrassed talking to the taxi driver and the abuelita behind the pharmacy counter about my need for a pregnancy test. I mean it was proof: we do it – *IT* people! – and, people know. Yes, I know I worked in sexual health for.ev.er but that was *other people* right? And, I know I’m talking to the whole world of strangers three people who read this blog about my ‘gina but that doesn’t change the squeelly-feeling I had about other people’s thoughts of what was going on with me and D – like I could tell our taxi driver was excited for us, but was also being super polite and respecting my “privacy”.

Anywho, here comes more stuff that’s totally not private any more:

We got back to the boat with *the* pregnancy test (*the* as in *one* because there was no way I was pregnant so it was really silly I even got *one* to begin with) and I promptly went to the head to dispel the silliness. D stood in the doorway while we watched the little line on the stick go from one to TWO (as in TWO = pregnant) and then the WTFs and OMGs started. Our eyes were as big as saucers and we just kept nervously laughing – I mean, come on, really?

So, off to google we went to learn about the odds of pregnancy test false positives: apparently super low. So, having learned from google, a pregnancy test and more importantly, my body, that we were indeed pregnant (with an IUD in, to boot), D and I just kinda sat around the boat in excited disbelief, like this:

bridesmaids-movie-quotes-64

Given I’m 32, and he’s 39, and we’re not getting any younger, we had actually been talking a lot about getting my IUD out in the next couple of months in order to start trying* (*as in: won’t it be fun to get pregnant in the hypothetical “future”). But, I had also been going back and forth about getting on that rollercoaster – after all, it’s a HUGE decision to start a family. So, naturally, I was hemming and hawing, knowing I would eventually get on board, but definitely doing my best backpedal on the way. I even had an intentional conversation with a dear friend with two small kids about what it is *really* like; during which I actually uttered “You know, with this IUD I have to make a super-conscious choice to start. It’d almost be easier if I could just get pregnant ‘accidentally’”. Umm, be careful what you ask for!

So, here we were, with “the hypothetical future” upon us: excited but also 1,0000% shocked! We just kept looking at each other with stupid grins, saucer eyes and repeating: “.06%, huh?”.

I mean, it all made sense but it was sooo unlikely.

Like two generals caught completely off-guard in battle we grasped at a semblance of a plan to make some sense out of our *little chaos*:

  1. given it was about 7pm, we’d have to wait until morning to get a blood test at the local clinic our taxi driver mentioned;
  2. then, if we were “still” pregnant (ha!), we’d have to find a place with an ultrasound to confirm the pregnancy was not ectopic* – which is a super serious concern, although not very likely (ha! like odds apply to us!);
  3. then, there was the *small matter* of what to do about the IUD.

*apparently women with IUDs experience more ectopic pregnancies than women without. As far as I can tell, it’s not causal, in that the IUD doesn’t make you have an ectopic pregnancy. But, rather, that the IUD prevents implantation in the uterus so if a pregnancy occurs, it’s more likely not to be in the uterus, but elsewhere (like in the fallopian tubes aka an ectopic pregnancy). Further, the risks of ectopic pregnancy include infertility and death (because once the pregnancy reaches a certain point too big for the tubes, it bursts and the woman can bleed to death). So, while I figured I was too early in the pregnancy to bleed out from the pregnancy burst, I knew I definitely had to figure this piece out. In other words, we were shy a couple of important hurdles before we could throw ourselves whist-fully into pregnant bliss.

I don’t remember how we got to sleep that night but soon enough morning came.

We got to the clinic before it even opened. Standing outside were four Guatemalan women in traditional clothes and next to them, a foot taller, was me and ginger-bearded Damon – the only man there. Needless to say, we were a curiosity. When the clinic finally opened, we entered a small waiting room with a paper-thin partition where they drew blood on the other side. It was simple and clean.  From my background as a sexual-health educator, I was happy to see government posters eschewing the importance of getting tested for STDs and AIDS (SIDA en español). But, given the following practice of the administrator/nurse/super-nice woman responsible for both the front desk and the blood draws asking each of us publicly why we were there, I’m sad to bet not many folks get tested for SIDA, et al given the lack of HIPAA standards.

When it was ANNOUNCED that I was there for a pregnancy test, all of the other women looked at me and smiled; I blushed. They offered up joyful well-wishes but I wasn’t convinced.

I know pregnancy is (supposed to be) a blessing but I was still in shock and also nervous about the potential for serious health problems given my IUD. Self-consciously, I wondered if it seemed I wasn’t as excited as all the other women were for me.  I caught myself chiding their blind faith ala “in a perfect world, yeah, I’d be totally excited. But, they don’t know the half of it. I mean, I have a few more hoops to jump before I can breathe easy”.  Then, hot on my judgment’s heels came sobering assumptions about their circumstantial standing in Guatemala’s maternal-child mortality statistics. It was more than likely that these women had seen their fair share of pregnancies where blessings were in high demand.

Standing side by side, shoulder to (much shorter) shoulder with these women got me thinking that perhaps I should think twice about (dis)counting any of my own blessings (before they hatch). It was also the first moment of my pregnancy where I felt like I had joined The Club. An auxiliary to the global sisterhood of women, the Pregnancy & Motherhood Club felt similarly universal. And, here in this rural clinic in Guatemala, regardless of any superficial or significant differences, I was being welcomed.

The blood draw was simple enough and the administrator/nurse/super-nice woman advised us to return in 2 hours for the results. She also informed us of that there was an OB/GYN in town who could offer further medical services should I need them.

So we went to brunch. Again wide-eyed and seemingly walking on air, we stammered exclamations of “what if?”, “what THE!?!”, etc. for a very long 120 minutes.

As we made our way back to the clinic and turned the corner, there was the administrator/nurse/super-nice woman, waving down a bus to get someone’s sample to the hospital in the next town (via a public bus driver, of course). She looked at us with a BIG smile and informed us our test results were positive: we were pregnant.

(this space intentionally left blank for dramatic pause purposes)

 

 

 

 

(and we’re back . . .)

Once we caught our breath and collected our “you’re officially pregnant” paperwork, we headed off to see Dr. Chang, the OB/GYN in town. The next immediate hurdle was to find out whether the pregnancy was in utero or ectopic. dun dun duuuun

After an ultrasound, Dr. Chang was happy to report it wasn’t ectopic. But, he also had another surprise in store for us: “It looks like twins”.

um, what?!?

(this space intentionally left blank for another dramatic pause)

 

 

 

 

(and we’re back, again)

He went on to say he “couldn’t be sure” about the twins because I was so early (4 weeks) and perhaps the IUD was in the way/casting a shadow on its womb-mate(s). But, I was definitely pregnant, it was in utero, and I had the complication of the IUD.

Laurie Ultrasound warrows

So, yet another hurdle cleared but another yet to go.

“What should we do about the IUD?” we asked.

“You should take it easy. Bedrest until you stop spotting. No Sex. Let’s get you on pre-natals and progesterone.”

“But, what about removing the IUD?” we asked again.

“You should leave it in. It’s God’s will. If you have it removed it will cause an abortion and I will not be a party to that”.

Got it.

(for the record, I think the term “abortion” and “miscarriage” are often times interchanged, especially in a medical setting and especially so in a foreign-language medical setting – not so much in a political setting, but that’s a whole ‘nother blog post.)

Still, it was made very clear by Dr. Chang that if we were looking to terminate, he was not our guy. We assured him we weren’t (after all, we had been planning this  . . . in the hypothetical “future”). But, we weren’t sold on not removing the IUD. I mean, I read WebMD internet forums. That’s as good as gold, right?

Plus, I don’t really like it (to put it mildly) when someone else attempts to mix their politics with my reproductive health care. So we left; scripts in hand, grateful to know the pregnancy was in-utero, but seeking no more of Dr. Chang’s services.

Not having a second option in town, we went in search of one online. Specifically, I wrote a couple OB/GYN gal-pals back home with my details, and they both recommended removal if the pregnancy was less than 12 weeks (like mine). Sure, they said, there’s a 50/50 chance of miscarriage if the IUD is removed. But if the IUD is left in, there’s also a risk of early labor (and all the complications associated with that). Additionally, if the IUD is left in, there’s also a high risk of having a unicorn baby*. *not true at all

Armed with the professional recommendations of trusted friends (and definitely not wanting a unicorn baby), I decided I wanted to find a doc who would remove the IUD.

Luckily, while I was chatting with my gal-pals back home, Damon was combing the internet for OB/GYNs in Guatemala who might be able to help us out. Most were in Guatemala City, most had receptionists who did not speak English, and most were not able to help us at this late hour (Friday afternoon). But, we did manage to get through to a couple doctors who recommended the IUD come out immediately – which they could only do in Guatemala City, as soon as Monday.

So, we’d have to wait out the weekend. Me, on Dr. Chang-ordered bedrest with a side of prenatal vitamins and progesterone injections (which leave you sore and full of weird oil balls in your injection site – it’s how they suspend the hormones, I guess). Damon was on “everything-else” duty.

(by the by, and in case you’re keeping track, this was not the first waiting period to have passed and, as it would turn out, many waiting periods were still to come. if you know me, you know how patient I am . . . not. apparently, Nature and I keep different schedules – the nerve!)

From the boat, we occupied our weekend mainly with the logistics of our upcoming trip to Guatemala City: which doctor would we see, what bus would be take, who would look after the dog, would be need a hotel, what next??? And, of course, how much everything would cost was on our minds, too. But, given Guatemala’s medical tourism industry and the fact that an IUD removal really isn’t that complicated a procedure, we figured it couldn’t be much: maybe a couple hundred bucks for the whole trip, considering the 5 hour-bus ride each way, a night in a hotel, meals and medical services by a private doc* in the City? (*given the unusual nature of my pregnancy, I thought it best to not show up in the public hospital or a local clinic)

Luckily, a fellow boater in our marina offered to watch the dog for as long as we needed (he didn’t know why we were going to the City, he just offered, ‘cause cruisers are awesome like that).

Finally, at 2:30am on Monday morning we took off on the redeye bus for Guatemala City armed with a contact list of US-Embassy-recommended-OB/GYNs and a custom-made map of their offices in relation to our bus stop, our hotel and supposedly the best Thai-food place in Guat City (c’mon, would you really expect any less from me?).

We arrived around 7:30am and after a quick bite, we worked the contact list. I secured one appointment at 9am with one Dr. Edmundo Guillen and another with at 11am with another doctor just down the street– just in case (yep, still Type-A me).

I had made the back-up 11am appointment in case I didn’t like Dr. Guillen’s vibe. But as it turned out, he proved a wonderful, warm doctor, father and grandfather who took great care of me that day, and in the weeks following, both during and after my pregnancy. He had actually been one of the doctors we spoke to on Friday – when he was off work, on his cell – who recommended an immediate removal.

And, by “immediate removal”, he meant it. (I find it funny how, in situations like these, even though I know what’s coming, I’m always like “now? You wanna do it now? Oh”, as if I thought “immediate” meant “later” as in “never”)

After about 15 minutes of background, I was in a paper dress making full acquaintance with the good doctor. I specifically remember during the “short” procedure, how Dr. Guillen mentioned it was all going along so “gently”  – turns out “gently” and “short” are relative terms dependant directly on which side of the speculum you’re on . . .

Within a few minutes I was back in my civvies but not before Dr. Guillen showed me the culprit: something about the black oxidation of the copper. He remarked that’s a sign of age and I should have had it replaced (even though it was only 8 years old and supposed to last 10-12). Umm, okay. How was I supposed to know to change it? Oh, riiiight: XRay vision, psychic powers or better yet, just get pregnant and then you’ll know yer dadgum IUD don’t work no more! Silly me.

Re: Dr. Guillen’s show-and-tell, I know what you’re thinking: “grody!”, right? Me, too. It was grody. But, it was also fine – I actually really appreciate it when a professional shows me the problem like I’m an actual, capable, adult woman-person, instead of just patting me on the head and telling me not to worry about it, little lady. Still, I don’t think a whole lot of people look at stuff that was in their body for EIGHT years and don’t think “eww, that looks like an old radiator hose or something”. Or maybe that’s just me.

ahem, moving on . . . .

Dr. Guillen was pleased to hear we had booked a room in Guat City for the night, just in case. There was no sight-seeing allowed; my orders were straight to bed. If I didn’t have a miscarriage/abortion from the removal within the first 24 hours, Doc said the chances were good I’d have a normal pregnancy.

He explained my spotting should clear up in about a week; I was to be on bed rest for TWO MORE WEEKS – “no strenuous activity”. Further, Dr. Guillen prescribed “No sex. No thinking about sex. I don’t want your hormones changing or uterus cramping because of an orgasm”.  Ummmm, okay. “Got it. Sure, no problem,” you wanna say all casual like, knowing full well the good Doctor knows how you got into this predicament in the first place . . .

We scheduled a follow-up, hopefully an all-clear into the 2nd trimester, for a few weeks later on Monday, March 18th (the day before my 32nd birthday).

March 18th. It became a magic day; one of those days circled in red on the calendar with every day leading up to it another big, black X of hurdles surmounted and progress made.

With each black X we got more and more excited. I didn’t miscarry within the first 24 hours of the removal = big black X. I stopped spotting seven Xs later. So far, so good, eh?

Sure, we were reluctant to throw ourselves fully into the possibility that this “whole pregnancy thing” might work out. But with each black X on the calendar, we inevitably slid further down the slippery Hope slope.

All the while “waiting until the 18th”, we exchanged knowing glances. We floated ideas for names. We imagined.

We surprised friends and ambushed family with Trojan Horse Skype calls disguised as routine check-ins.  We swore them all to secrecy and got random congratulatory emails from others nonetheless. We explored many possibilities about whether we would return to the States or become expat/boat mama and papa like those we’ve met along the way. We got unsolicited advice from our neighbors on the dock. We made jokes about how Titos Vodka was gonna go out of business until the little one came. We felt blessed to know my 93-year-old Grandmother (who Skypes!) was excited to meet another generation. We were totally curious to know how our old, grumpy salty dog was gonna interact with his new “puppy”. We downloaded pregnancy apps and we ordered hippie books from pioneers like Ina May Gaskin.

Damon got a little more protective and paternal as his responsibilities on the boat expanded with our little family.

I had normal 1st tri-symptoms of a touch of nausea, tender boobs and general fatigue. I also had a weird symptom of burping – a lot (apparently it has to do with hormonal changes effecting your digestive system) – all things I was happy to complain about. I had half-serious “complaints” about our already drama-filled and high-maintenance little Scorpio. I ate way too much ice-cream for a lactose-intolerant lady on bed rest. And, I drafted an excited blog post (which turned into this one).

All this is to say that, while we were “waiting until the 18th” we just couldn’t help ourselves but be excitedly cautious very-newly-pregnant cruisers.

Sure, we had normal reservations about the big stuff: where to have the baby, where to raise the baby, how to pay for the baby, etc. But, in general, the whole experience was such a series of “if we get through this then we’ll be in the clear” situations. So, we figured we just better roll with it and have fun with whatever we got.

Like digging up these old pics of what our babies might look like:

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Thing 1

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Thing 2

perhaps the way things turned out was a good thing???

~~~

Soon, the Xs on the calendar reached into the double-digits and approached the big red circle of dun, dun, dun THE 18TH!

On yet another trip to Guatemala City, we hoped for an easy turn-around: get the early morning bus, visit with the doc at 11am, get an all-clear, then hop back on the 1pm and be back – with baby – by supper. It was not to be.

Our first sign of trouble was from Nurse Bad News Bears, who administered my sonogram. In a stark contrast to our light-hearted, silly Spanglish exchange a few minutes prior, she silently squinted at her screen and soberly pressed “how far along are you?”; she followed up “are you sure?”. Switching from the “jelly on the belly” to a much more intimate sonogram, we joined her in scanning the screen for an image – and the sound – of what we expected.

Something like this:

12weeks_2

Or, good heavens! Maybe even this:

sono 11 weeks twins

But, instead, there was this:

baby joneses

baby joneses

And, no more Spanglish jokes.

There they were (yes, “they” as in “two”!). But, there were no heartbeats. There was no pointing out fingers and toes. There was only “the doctor will explain everything to you”.

By a scheduling mix-up, we had to wait two hours. Two, long hours, filled with knowing but not wanting to know; filled with as many google searches as we could bear (one); filled with more waiting.

Interesting how the mood of a hospital waiting room can change dramatically with the temper of a diagnosis. Suddenly I noticed sick – perhaps dying – people and their families in chairs once occupied by mothers and their infants (“like the one we’ll have soon”) getting routine check-ups.

There were no other (visibly) pregnant women in His waiting room. I wondered what they were there for – it hadn’t occurred to me earlier, when I was stealthily stuffing my purse with old issues of Pregnancy magazine. Damon took a silent cue and discreetly put them back.

And, then, they called my name.

It was so cliché: doctor on one side of the desk, two young, expectant parents on the other side, bad news and questions being exchanged between. The words “no hope” anchored the conversation. Then, “surgery”. Then “as soon as possible”.

We took a long moment.

We let ourselves feel what we already knew and we let the tears fall.

Soon, in another “I’m totally not ready for this, but here we go anyway” moment, I was admitted to the adjoining hospital where Dr. Guillen would perform my D&C in just a few hours.

I called my mom. I think she had joined me in placing a big red circle over the 18th and was expecting my call. She answered cheerfully, launching into an excited story about how seeing some kiddos out and about gave her Grandma-to-be flash-forwards. Of course she didn’t know. I told her. Then, Damon told his dad. Both gave us bolstering words and sentiments which loved us through.

Nurses came and went; doctors, too. People explained things, took vitals. My anesthesiologist (I was to go fully under) proved remarkable: she was about my age and somehow struck the perfect balance between chipper and responsible; rode the perfect line between “I do this every day” and “I know you don’t”. She sat on the bed with me, talking to me at eye-level, casually asking me about my medical history and stumbling, apologetically through practicing her English (which really wasn’t bad at all!).  She apologized “I’m sorry, I’m no good at English”. To which I playfully tested, “but, you’re really good at anesthesia?”. Her smile opened wide to let out a laugh; she held her thumb way up, winked and said “Yes!”. I was in good hands. (indeed, it was she who noticed my nerves an hour later under the OR lights and without a pause, took mine in hers. and, she who snuck D into the recovery room against all rules but compassion.)

That night was a bit of a blur for me: nurses came and went, changed my IVs, helped me pee (awkward!) and changed my dressings aka “sumo-wrestler undies” (yep, still totally awkward).  Dr. Guillen explained to Damon everything went as expected and I needn’t worry about any complicated aftercare. He had only these words of caution: because of the amount of tissue removed, we needed to allow my body multiple menstrual cycles to build back up any uterine lining, should we want to avoid another improperly implanted pregnancy, and the all-too-familiar potential consequences.

“Huh?” must’ve been the look on our faces.

He simplified it for us, “Use condoms for three months. Don’t get pregnant”.

“Oh, right, ‘cause the IUD-twin couple is super good at beating the pregnancy odds.”

We all laughed.

“Well, just use two condoms and then it won’t be any fun and you won’t want to do it”

We laughed again, until the awkward silence started.

Yep, more abstinence and/or reliving the condom “fun” of many years past, was apparently the latex lining on this dark cloud. (ba-dum-bum ching!)

~~~

By noon the next day (my 32nd birthday) we were discharged, we paid our bill, and after a 4 hour ride back to the Rio, I wrote the following letter to the handful of family and friends “in” on our expanding crew list:

“I apologize for the mass email, but wanted to share with you all the latest: yesterday we had our 11 week checkup and found out we had twins (!) but, unfortunately, they had not developed and had no heartbeat(s).

Because there was no hope for what was to be the newest Jones to keep up with, and there was a potentially serious risk of infection for me, I was immediately admitted to the hospital in Guatemala City for a D&C. The procedure was performed by a team of really great providers (led by my OB/GYN) and went really well. Early pathology confirms the pregnancies would not have progressed.

My doctor strongly suspects the reason the pregnancies didn’t progress was due to the IUD (I had in place when I got pregnant in January) preventing proper implantation (and therefore nourishment of the ovas). Otherwise, he confirmed that I am in great health – his comment of “when you were in surgery, I checked out your hips and when you want to get pregnant again, you should have no problem giving birth vaginally” made me feel a little bit like a prize breeding sow, but I appreciate the Doc’s intentions.

I was released this morning and we are now comfortably back on the boat. Other than being a bit tired and sore, I feel great – I’m not nauseous and my boobs don’t hurt for the first time in weeks!

We find the following series of well-known clichés, to be in line with our own perspective:

  • “Miscarriages can be a blessing in disguise”;
  • “You don’t just want a baby, you want a healthy baby”;
  • “Everything happens for a reason”;
  • “It wasn’t meant to be”;
  • “When it comes to womb-mates, three is a crowd”*;
  • and, “Shit Happens”.

*perhaps not as well-known as the other clichés

Even so, we are pretty disappointed and find ourselves grieving the excitement we shared with all of you over the past couple of weeks.

It has been really fun to share the possibility of expanding our family with all of you. Thank you for all of your kind words, for fielding our many (sometimes weird) questions about pregnancy and childbirth and for razzing us (mainly me) about getting my just desserts from the little ones.

At this time, we’re just really thankful for the love and support of our community (all of you) and for the great health care I’ve received. And, of course, us being us, we’re definitely taking the opportunity to laugh at a bunch of stupid and (mostly) inappropriate jokes that run through our heads.

Thanks again for everything.

love,

Laurie & Damon

Ps. We expect that some of you, in your excitement, may have shared our initial Jones-expansion-plans with others. If so, thanks for your burst of excitement and for spreading the love, but  . . . now that there’s this (less than exciting) news, we’d really appreciate you following up with anyone “in the know” who’s not addressed here. Thank you so much for your help.

~~~

“After” words

I wrote in that birthday letter that I felt better than I had in weeks – I think I was high. Sure, physically I felt better: like not pregnant with first-tri symptoms. But, that high wasn’t to last. In fact, the bottom fell out a few days later when I started spotting again.

It was physical proof I was in recovery. Physical proof that everything did, in fact, just happen. Physical proof that I lost what was, in fact, inside me – in my uterus and in my heart (cheesy, I know).

Since discovering we were pregnant (with an IUD in place), we knew there was a higher-than-normal risk that “it could go splat” (to borrow an outlook held lovingly by a good friend when she was in her first tri). We thought we were prepared for that and would take it in stride, like no big deal. Right? wrong. I get it now. At least my version of “it” – pregnancy & miscarriage.

For weeks I felt trapped in a no-woman’s-land between not-pregnant-anymore and not-yet-normal. My membership in the super-fun-time-sister-hood-of-the-Pregnancy Club had been terminated. When my prego-boat buddy and I went out – and only she — was congratulated, it stung. When another, far-flung boat-buddy announced she was pregnant, my first thought was to laugh with her about how crazy it was that all three of our young-people-buddy-boats got pregnant in Panama ala “there’s something in the water, eh?”. But, then I paused; what excitedly expectant mama wants to hear about pregnancy not working out? “I’m sure you’ll be fine, though” Ugg. Way to take the fun outta that pregnancy announcement, Debbie Downer.

Of course, I’m over-the-moon excited for them; truly I am. It’s just that their excitement (and the familiar question of our child-less status from well-meaning strangers), has, at times, painfully reminded me of the excitement I no longer have. The Club I’m no longer in. And, of the Other Club I joined by default. “Other”, like a box checked on a form between “never been pregnant” and “mother”.

I didn’t want to be in this club! (stamping feet!) I wanted to be in the other club! (even when wasn’t expecting to be!) Or, maybe, could at least be in the normal club? (like a “normal club” exists!)

Having moved so quickly from the (publicly-congratulated) Pregnancy Club to the privacy of Other Club felt very isolating. Other than my wonderful partner, I was thousands of miles away from anyone who knew me well and knew my status (had changed, and then changed again). Like the pregnancy itself, this time was filled with more waiting and wondering; the un-expected unexpecting. It was really hard. I cried almost every day: tears of frustration, tears of disappointment, & I’m sure tears full of hormonal cocktail served straight-up and on-the-rocks. I had been personally introduced to a new shade of grey which colored everything in my view. I was not happy.

Of course, even though I felt totally alone at times, I was not. There are lots of women in this Other Club who’ve hosted a whole range of similar experiences. Some of them don’t get pregnant so surprisingly, some of them don’t get my sterling prized-sow diagnosis for future pregnancies and some of them even hold cards in a combination of clubs (Pregnancy, Other and Mother).

Through this experience, many women who I didn’t know held memberships in the Other Club have reached out. And, I’ve grown closer to those in this club I already knew held a card. I’m grateful for the generosity of sharing and listening – and especially for the laughs and opportunities to talk about the fun times, too. It’s been nice to know that even though I don’t get to keep the babies, I get to keep the experience and share the stories. Of course, I know that what I have experienced isn’t the worst of all – but I also know it’s not nothing.

Training wheels. These two little whatevers, joining us on the boat, against all odds, thousands of miles away from my support system, have provided us a peek into a possible future. They’ve given us a pass – at least for now – on what another pregnancy – or even a baby – on our boat might be: the possibility of finding great care outside the US medical system, as much recovery time as I want away from work and with my partner, and also the trappings of having only virtual, long-distance support from dear friends and family.

I spent six weeks in that no-woman’s-land between pregnant and normal (having a period again). Then, early last week, I got my period. It’s had a way of shifting the stasis of my present into my history. It’s turned out to be the yin to my spotting’s yang: another physical reminder of my recovery, this this time gently telling me the cycle continues.

leaving Fronteras

Our little family (of three), with Guatemala behind us

~~~

A few thoughts on sharing this:

It occurred to me that this could be just one more sad story on the internet. That’s not my intention. Like every post on this blog, this is a snapshot into our lives out here on S/V Mother Jones. Something private, which we chose to make public – it was never a secret (there’s difference, so says my mama, between Private and Secret).

I also happen to think context matters, and I would have been remiss in not mentioning something so significant on our journey: “How was Guatemala?” “Umm, freaking crazy!”

Additionally, because I’m so far away from home, and because we were so early on, there are also a lot of folks we know and love who would probably be “in” on this news given another week or so. But, given the circumstances, we weren’t really keen to tell this story over and over again. To all you folks we love, and (we hope!) love us back, we trust you’ll forgive us for sharing this important context of our lives in such an impersonal way.

Another reason I decided to post this to The Internet is that throughout my pregnancy I got a ton out of referencing other women’s stories – in online forums, through personal emails and dockside conversations. Perhaps this share will be helpful to someone reading (I know it was for me in writing – thank you all for listening).

Finally, for any of y’all reading who think this subject matter is gross, TMI or otherwise impolite, 1) why have you kept reading this far!?! and 2) it’s just life, y’all, get over it.

~~~

A few words about medical care, insurance and payment in Central America (and maybe a little bit of a rant, too – hey, the personal is political):

We don’t carry health insurance. We pay out of pocket and generally that’s meant $5-50 worth of medicines or treatments. We’ve received brand-name antibiotics, had our teeth cleaned, and our moles checked by excellent pharmacists, dentists and doctors – most of whom speak English, because most were trained in the States or Cuba. Because of the low cost of routine care, our relative youth (32 and 39) and because we’re relatively healthy, we haven’t carried insurance. Of course, insurance isn’t there for the routine. It’s there for the emergency you don’t plan for – like a pregnancy with an IUD, removal and then a D&C – or worse, waaay worse.

Our emergency cost about $2,000 all-told, including everything from my initial pregnancy test, three visits to a first-class OB/GYN in private practice, travel to and from Guatemala City twice and an overnight stay in a private room in a private hospital (which took VISA). Believe you me, I recognize how lucky, persistent and privileged we are to have had this access to quality care.

Ironically, $2,000 was the deductible we were negotiating in a policy that didn’t include maternity care (for 10 months) a few weeks prior to our emergency.

Adding to further irony, on the same day of my lecture-free, safe asind legal abortion in the explicitly Catholic country of Guatemala, my home state of Texas (which explicitly protects religious freedoms???) was debating several laws to restrict access to abortion care. One of these measures includes subjecting women like me to an unnecessary (vaginal) ultrasound and state-mandated badgering (under the guise of “informed consent”). All this in a thinly-veiled attempt to get us to change our mind about abortion. As if we had the luxury.

Kemah, the other white meat

I have spent the entire day dealing with the dog. Rather, I’ve spent the entire day dealing with the specifics of having a dog aboard a sailboat in one country (Guatemala) and trying to move with him (legally) to another country (Belize).

Kemah, the dog, has spent his day doing this:

photo

note: one throw pillow under each arm

He didn’t even say “thanks”. The nerve.

But, I don’t begrudge him at all for his cushion-warming. In fact, I’d love to join him and most days I do. But, not today. Today, I’m afraid we had to stick to the roles predetermined by our opposable thumbs (or lack thereof) until he learns how to, in fact, do this:

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perhaps this is why our pet import permit to Belize was lost in translation

Ya see, in the last year and a half, we’ve cruised half a dozen countries with the dog (The Bahamas, Jamaica, Columbia, Panama, Honduras and Guatemala). I’m used to my little routine: getting on Noonsite, checking the regs, then maybe doing a quick search of Cruisers Forum and/or the Cruisers Yahoo Group to see if any sailors have posted anything recently regarding check-in procedures (as they are wont to change).

Fortunately, we’ve had no issues and, generally, the import process for dogs held up to what was previously stated on the web. Furthermore, usually, no one cared at all: most didn’t ask-we volunteered K’s info; The Bahamas cared so little about what went on their forms the official listed K’s breed as “rescue dog” (okay . . .); and in Jamaica, which is the only country we’ve visited where K wasn’t allowed off the boat, the officials showed us a little island away from the anchorage where they “knew others have taken their dogs” *wink wink*.

But, it seems we are going to have no such luck importing our dog to Belize with lax regulations. I will spare you the play-by-play of the web of info I navigated, but perhaps this gem of a tangent will give you some idea of the clarity of info published by the Belizean authorities on the topic: “Obtaining a permit for these pets from BAHA is the same as is described above for obtaining a permit for ham or turkey“. umm, okay? (apparently, Belizeans love their Christmas hams . . .)

Anywho, long story short and in the spirit of paying it forward . . . here what we did to get an understanding of what will hopefully work for us (confused yet?):

  • We called the Placencia office of the Belize Agriculture Health Authority (BAHA) at (011) 501-824-4872. We spoke to a very nice official and were told that we need fill out this application to import animals and email it back to them via bahasps@btl.net or animalhealth.baha@gmail.com (we emailed both).
  • The permit process takes 3 business days to be completed (we are submitting the app from Fronteras, Rio Dulce, Guatemala and taking 3+ days to get to the coastal town of Livingston, Guatemala. So, we figured we’re getting a head start and can just follow up in Livingston before entering Belizean waters). The permit is $25 (without the additional fees for faxing in the permit app, which we are not doing because we are choosing not to track down a time machine to find a working fax machine and are instead just emailing the forms).
  • We also need a Health Certificate, dated within 7 days of expected arrival, signed by a vet (from the country you are arriving from) affirming K to be in good health with an up-to-date rabies vaccination (he has the 3-year kind and they said that’s fine). We were quoted anywhere between $30-150 for this service from several vets in the area. Only one of them indicated they would need to examine Kemah before sending us the paperwork (via the bus from Guatemala City – why? who knows). We were told by one vet the high fee was due to arranging the import permit with Belize (I am doing that on my own) and for securing a “Guatemalan export permit” for K (um, that’s never been mentioned before and Belize doesn’t need it, so, no thanks). Because we have our old Health Cert from the States with all of K’s records and info on it, we simply emailed it to the  “don’t need to see him, send me info, I’ll sign off on it for $30” vet who is located in Guatemala City and will send the papers on the bus to us tomorrow. We’re paying a middle man at another marina for the service. What could go wrong?

By the by, we have read (on the totally reliable source that is the internet) that failure to secure an import permit or have a health cert could result in a $100 fine in Belize. This penalty is not exactly nothing, but not a horrible (we’re confiscating/quarantining/euthanizing your pet) scenario either. And, before we convinced the $30 vet not to charge us the extra $120 for “preparing” K’s papers, we seriously considered saving $20 by just showing up in Belize “unprepared” and paying the $100 fine.

So, that’s that. Cross your fingers, toes and opposable thumbs that everything will work out swimmingly. And, I’ll be sure to let you know what happens upon entry to Belize.

Until then, K and I are gonna keep the cushions warm.

***Update: We cleared into Belize on Monday, April 22. We never received a Import Permit  from BAHA, and both cruisers and locals encouraged us to bypass the BAHA office, which will make an appointment to search your boat for agriculture & animals if you report having any – and they will charge you for the transport of their officers to/from your boat. The nay-sayers figured “BAHA costs money, takes time, and no one enforces anything for BAHA for boaters” (unlike port captains, who may request your boating permits). So, in short, no one ever asked about the dog, and we didn’t tell. And, while I remain *convinced* this will bite us in the end, D was the captain who checked us in and continues to espouse the philosophy of the islands: “don’t worry, be happy”. Umm, okay.***